Green Resolutions for 2008

Activist Annie Leonard spent 20 years finding out where 'stuff' comes from and where it goes when we, consumers, are finished with it. This 20 minute cartoon short is comical, clear-ended and fact-filled in describing the US global economy. May it shake you up enough for a resolution worth keeping this 2008. Welcome to the underside of production, sale, use and disposal of stuff sold at big box retail stores. This is a brilliant road map that exposes the connections between environmental and social issues and calls for all of us to create a more sustainable environment by teaching people how to think globally and act locally. Here are a couple of teasers that will lead you to the full 20 minute feature:





Visit Story of Stuff today.

Cocobolo Vibrations

Dave owns not 1 but 2 custom-built Carl Thompson (CT for short) guitars, both made from exotic dark cocobolo wood. Cocobolo is an especially hard-wood grown in the lush rainforests of Central America and I actually got to see a Cocobolo tree while hiking in Panama's protected Chagres National Park last year. My Panamanian guide explained that notable musicians like the dearly departed Jerry Garcia (The Grateful Dead) and existing Les Claypool (Primus) owned and own several highly-prized and expensive cocobolo guitars. Now, lead singer and bass player, Dave O'Connor of Starcode, can rightly take his place on that benchmark as well.

Dave's guitars took 2 years to make, a typical wait time for custom-work by 68-year old master craftsman Carl Thompson. He lives in Brooklyn and truly does fashion a one-of-a-kind creation in-between playing and practicing jazz music of his own. CT basses incorporate the finest wood, the best craftsmanship, details never seen before and personal details that hadn't been used since the late 70's says the CT website. Even if you don't know how to play an instrument or recognize a Taylor from an Alvarez from a Gibson, the CT bass made of cocobolo will catch your attention instantly as will the sound.

Deluxe Apartment in the Sky

"Hey, don't you want to know what it feels like to stand on top of the world?" asks my good friend Dani. And with that, my car squeals to a dead stop on 86th Street and does a U-turn bound back to Midtown. Dani works in construction and it's not often that I'm in NYC and simultaneously invited to see what a $28 million dollar penthouse looks like, or better yet, what it looks like looking back on Manhattan. It's beyond anything I could have imagined. I'm sworn to secrecy as to who lives there and which building I was in, but, even with 8000 square feet of living space, it's still not the biggest bodega on the block. That mind-blowing prize belongs to a few apartments wedged above and below. They're each double the size of Dani's pride and joy with 2 floors to show off big screen tv's, wall-to-wall luxury carpeting, a shoe room, a powder room, an entertainment room, a library, etc, etc, etc. And, as amazing as the apartment is, it's really quite unconscionable that riches get spent so flamboyantly. I left the 'top of the world' giving a little extra pocket change to a smiling homeless sap on the street corner outside, half wondering if he might not be happier than the anonymous rich tycoon on the inside...

Out with the Old, In with the New

Technology gadgets and gifts were huge this year. I know 5 people alone who received the same Nikon digital camera on Christmas morning and several others who upgraded their ipods and cell phones. And, what's so wonderful is that both Nikon and Apple understand that recycling is key to upgrading.

Both websites offer environmental action plans to discard your old analog camera and/or ipod and cell phone. Corporations can no longer go forward without a green philosophy in place to combat global warming. Many are taking measures to protect against deforestation and desertification. Others are seeking a reduction in hazardous chemical substances like carbon dioxide (CO2), chlorofluorocarbon (CFC), and dioxin. And, even more so are committing to waste reduction in the workplace and product design, like paper, metal and glass. What a wonderful time to be alive to witness nascent environment action plans coming together to save the planet.

And, for those who think only corporations only feel this way check out the music of Radiohead. They hired a Oxford company called Best Foot Forward to analyze the carbon and ecological footprints of their tours and determined ways to cut down on fan travel, consumption, venue energy and transportation of themselves and gear. They've decided to start sea freighting their equipment instead of air freighting because it's 93% more efficient and saves 47 tonnes of CO2. And they are avoiding chartered flights and taking more efficient road and rail transportation to get to each city they play. Now, that's commitment!

Island of Melting Traditions

My Greenland travel article, with links to these youtube videos, will debut online soon enough but I thought I'd give you a sneak peak at the videos I shot and edited. The first is on Nuuk, the capital of Greenland, while the second is on a city above the arctic circle called Ilulissat. Both are fabulous places to visit, learn and understand the earth's changing landscape. Much more will be shared on this fantastic island in photos and writing. Perhaps, just perhaps, owner and writer extraordinaire, Max Hartshorne, can teach his baristas at the GoNomad Cafe to prepare a Greenlandic coffee for the occasion...

Warren Miller Day in Vermont

Me and Miss Nola, my fitness guru who's hiked all 110 peeks in the Northeast - 46 of them in chilly winters, took to the slopes at Ascutney Mountain in Vermont today.

Fresh powder and empty trails (by my definition) made for a terrific day of skiing. It's Vermont's best kept secret with lift lines no more than 2 minutes long and steadfast grooming operations. The Quad wasn't running but the triple took us only a few yards from the top of Vermont's highest single peak. We traversed bumpy terrain for half a day and then broke for lunch inside the legendary base lodge, circa 1946.

Skiing at Ascutney is like coming home to a long overdue family reunion. Everybody scatters their bags and personals under tables and chairs knowing it's trustworthy enough to leave personals behind. Teenager boarders show respect for antiquated skiers like me by not rushing over the top of my skis or clipping by at dangerous speeds. And, with watchful ski instructors and friendly Activity Directors like Jonathon Robinson, it's no wonder everyone feels secure here. Jonathon mans the drop-off points and cafeteria with the eyes of a hawk, never one to miss 2 single chicks like Nola and me needing guidance during our first trip out this season.

Today marked the official Warren Miller Invitation day and even a pair from as far away as Taiwan were here to cash in on the freebies and fun. They joined us inside as we warmed our toes next to the roasting hearth. Good times continued into Brattleboro with a stop off at a food coop that could give Trader Joe's a healthy run for it's money. We picked up some fresh Kale, organic cocoa, dried apples and scrumptious falafel balls with tahini sauce. Oh, wait, lest I forget the rich dark chocolate maroons for dessert. Appetites are king after a full day of riding the ridge.

All is right with the world when you live, work or play in Vermont.

Hope for Doom Tourism

Having just been to Greenland in September with a soon-to-be article and video to share on GoNomad.com, I can identify with “Doom Tourism.” Allen Salkin of the NY Times writes an enlightening piece about the results of places expecting to be gone in a generation and what that does to tourism. He writes that travelers are chasing a modern-day version of an old human impulse — to behold an untrammeled frontier — except this time around, instead of being the first to climb a mountain or behold a glacier-fed lake, voyagers are eager to be the ones to see things last.

Even Jonathan Raban, the travel writer, said by phone from Seattle, his home. “It’s about the world being spoiled and the impulse of the tourist industry to sell us on getting there before it is too late, before other people spoil it.”

The worst is when claims are made that trips to these places are environmentally aware and eco-sensitive, continues the article. Some environmentalists say that this is preying on the green frenzy and hardly green. It’s greedy, requiring airplanes and boats as well as new hotels.

Of course, it’s difficult to reconcile conflicting ideas of seeing the planet while also wanting to save it. I run into that moral dilemma all the time. But in defense of my recent trip to Greenland the tourist board there does not mark itself as such. Sure, we enjoyed panoramic views of glaciers and fjords, but we were also introduced to Inuit culture and traditions, museums, locals, the political and religious history of the country, a whale safari and native cuisine. Greenland is a remarkable country with a proud indigenous culture whose people have inhabited the northern most Arctic regions of our world for over a thousand years.

When the trip was over, we took a small survey asking what surprised us most about Greenland and what features would draw us back. Not to downplay the glaciers, icebergs and fyords, because they truly are beyond imagination, but I found the resilient nature of the Inuits to survive in a hostile environment and, only recently, assimilate into mainstream culture, reason enough to return in the future.

It’s true that traveling by jet to see icebergs contributes to global warming, which makes the icebergs melt faster but that’s true of any place you go with a jet, not just Greenland. And though it’s an oxymoron to be a traveler by jet and green at the same time, perhaps that’s changing as well. I just read that Virgin Atlantic and GE Aviation plan to fly a biofuel-propelled 747 made from a sustainable source like algae, by next year. Also, as written about a few entries ago, some carriers like Continental and Quantas calculate the emissions of your flights and allow you to buy carbon dioxide credits that are paid to an environmental project of your choice. Hey, it’s all a start towards a promising future, especially for Doom Tourism.

Snow, Sleet and Freezing Rain

Rocco wasn't able to help me shovel 10 inches of snow today but he did melt a few patches, if you know what I mean. My beloved best friend is enjoying the cold front but I'm missing flights as a result. I should be blogging from D.C. this morning but Albany International closed yesterday and cancelled my flight to Baltimore leaving me scraping more than just my car window. Repeat gigs with paying clients is a bonus in the production industry so when I'm scraping for money I take what I can get. My clients in D.C. were crushed I couldn't make it but not as furious as I was with Mother Nature. I came close to driving to Baltimore but thought better of it when I saw the entire northeast blanketed by snow. Rocco is overjoyed to have me around for a full week straight, a true rarity if you read this blog regularly. However, he best not get used to it because I'll be off to Texas in a few weeks for another 4-day adventure. Unless, of course, another freak storm sabotages that deal as well. Anyhow, such is life working as an independent freelancer in the video production biz.

Heaven from Below

One final mention on Finland as I'm still jetlagged from the trip back and dreaming of fond memories. While in Helsinki, I stopped by one of, if not the only, church built inside a bed of granite in the world. It's a fairly new design, built in 1969 by architect brothers, Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen. The brothers weren't intending their blueprints to be carved out of rock but as soon as excavation began they realized the special uniqueness in what was left behind. It's a real masterpiece and the acoustics are as good as anything you'd find in a million-dollar concert hall. It's called, quite simply, the Rock Church and used for symphony orchestras, choirs and special ceremonies. The structure is almost hidden from above with only a few feet of windows and copper dome poking out from a cropping of rock. Once inside a gigantic copper dome surrounded by glass windows helps create an supernatural, out-of-body feeling. And being surrounded by nature rather than a man-made stucture surely adds to that experience.

Spreading Christmas Cheer

Finnair is a fantastic airline with a wonderful reputation. Safe as Santa's sleigh, it whisked me home yesterday without incident or accident. It's one of the oldest carriers in the world; established in 1923, with one of the best records for dependability and consistency. While waiting at the airport I took a photo of a profile view of one of only four Finnair planes decorated with a festive Christmas greeting. It reads, "Official Airline of Santa Claus" with Santa's jolly round body waving to passengers. Several Nordic countries make the same claim but few go the distance like Finland to secure Santa as their own.

Glögg with Tuna Tar-Tar

Tar is a viscous black slime used to seal rooftops and roads as well as waterproof ships and boats but in Helsinki (as disgusting as this sounds) tar is also a healthy cooking additive in herring, salmon and tuna. Infact, at the Savu Smokehouse we enjoyed an authentic Finnish “Christmas” lunch of appetizers, entrees and drink made with equal parts of this smelly solvent. And before eating our hands were washed in a small basin of warm water with a sudsy bar of tar soap.

The Finns have been using tar from birchbark for almost 300 years. The medicinal qualities include relieving skin problems like psoriasis and dandruff and cancor soars. It's produced from the bark of a tree, first by wounding it with a cut, then, after several years, chopping it down and burning in a tar pit. An old Finnish proverb states that if sauna, vodka and tar won't help, the disease is fatal.

Similar in concept to other theme restaurants like Medieval Times or the Hardrock Cafe, The Savu Smokehouse is still vastly different because it's culturally educational. Waitresses dress in period costume serve up platters of Finnish delicacies in a rugged storehouse setting turned dining room. It boasts that it's the "only restaurant in the world that uses smoke-curing in preparing all the dishes it serves." Indeed, the reindeer meat and accompanying seasoned potatoes were wonderful as was a refreshing glass of Glögg (mulled wine mix) with cloves, cinnamon, peeled almonds and a dash of, you guessed it - tar.

Whirling Dervishes on the Dance Floor

Finns are mostly of germanic origin with distinct facial features like wavy hair, pouty lips, a chiseled chin, doe eyes and high cheekbones. They really are stunning - men being handsome and woman being exotic, but surprisingly, not as many of them are as blond-haired and blue-eyed as you might think. I'm seeing every color in the rainbow here and that goes for Swedes as well. Spinning and gyrating to pulsing techno music we danced ourselves sober until closing. The place is called the "Red Room" and if you can cough up a hefty door charge (we befriended the owners friends and scored some discount coupons) then you too can drink and be merry to a hallucinogenic energy contagious with the beautiful people of Finland. Tonight we're off to do more of the same - anything for research!

Unisex Toilet Humor

Don't ever accuse the Finnish people of NOT having a great sense of humor. After visiting 3 out of 120 fantastic beer pubs in the city of Turku, my motley crew of writers and I learned about this rare gender-neutral find - the "Toilet Bar'! Yes, the Toilet bar, as in lavatory, water closet (WC), or loo. Both women and men alike can 'squat' for the night and 'waste' away an evening staring at the evolution of potty seats and flapper valves. The place is ironically a 'flushing success' with hundreds of thirsty Finns raising their lids for the national drink of Koskenkorva or Finnish Vodka. It's really just an average bar with a great name and a comical theme. It works and by midnight after too many drinks called Cloudyberry I found myself 'sinking' in my seat. Some friendly locals called a cab for me while the rest went disco schlagging until 2pm.

Turku is the country's oldest city, over 600 years however much of what's here today was built after the last fire in 1827. Frequent fires, uprisings and especially World War II destroyed all of the original wooden buildings in the town except for a famous handicraft museum called Luostarinmaki. Here we saw a wigmaker's room, tobacco workshop, a stable-boy's room and authentic grass-thatched roofs where sheep used to graze. Yes, sheep on top of a small roof! This place is definitely worth a longer visit when the rain stops pouring.

More on Christmas in Finland after my 2-hour deluxe train trip aboard the Pedolino on route for Helsinki in a few minutes...

The Sky's the Limit

Rather than wake to babies crying or rocky air turbulence, I gently lifted my lids to one of the most majestic sunrises I've ever seen. It broke over an endless horizon with a slice of the moon spooning the clouds and the edge of the plane wing absorbing the orange tint. It was absolutely breathtaking. As I wiped the sleep from my eyes and focused on the beauty of it, a Finnish passenger offered me a warm tea. Her name was Leena. She was returning from visiting her daughter in California but agreed that there was no place like home or in this case, Finland.



Minutes later we landed and shuffled our tired bodies to a motorbus for a 2 hour drive to the country's most famous resort, the Naantali Spa. To regain our strength, the 6 of us (4 writers from N.Y., 1 from C.A. and Maria, our guide) were introduced to spa therapy at its finest. Yes, clothing was optionally but being the inhibited Americans we are (not to mention super sober) we stuck to our speedos. There were a variety of pools to pick from, from Roman to Turkish to Mediterranean, hot and cold. I bounced from one to another in-between short sessions in the super hot Finnish sauna - expanding my capillaries as well as my mind.

My fave was the bubbling outdoor pool accessible by swimming through a mini-lighted tunnel. The weather today is gloomy and sour but swimming in recreational pools like this, with a view of the Baltic sea, doesn't dampen the day any. What makes this place even more unique is a 200-room ship called the Sunborn Yacht Hotel permanently docked next to the landlubbers hotel. The Yacht Hotel is actually only part floating maritime vessel. It was built without an engine room, Captains quarter or cargo area. This is a high-class timeshare like no other.

Yawn..... Oh no, I'm running low on fuel and there's still the local pub crawl and dinner to do. Such a tough life!

Dare to Bare in Finland

Today marks Finland's 90th year of independence from Russia, a day filled with military parades, flag-raising and the lighting of two candles in every home to honor the dead. It's a unique opportunity and one that I don't want to miss. Yes, I'm back in the cockpit hurling myself to uncharted territories across the pond hoping to take in a little national holiday spirit. Finland is one the world's most unique archipelagos and I'll be arriving in Helsinki to a relaxing pool and spa treatment. The Finns love their nude bath time but yours truly will play it safe and donn my polka-dot bikini! I'm no spahound but even Christmas festivities are preceded by a visit to one of their many famous steam baths so maybe just this time... Besides I hear that the European therapists have garnered awards from the pickiest clientele.

Other Christmas traditions are alot like the States but rather than turkey or ham the main dinner dish is boiled codfish served with boiled potatoes and cream sauce. The dried cod soaks for a week in a lye solution, then in clear water to soften it to the right texture. Carolers sing in the countryside wishing each other a "Merry Yule." This country also boasts having the real Santa Claus living in the upper part of Finland, in the Arctic Circle. There's also a tourist theme park called "Christmas Land" where children from all over the world send letters to Santa during this time of year. Of course, Greenland claims the same religious belief with hurds of reindeer to prove it.

I won't be here for Christmas but it sounds like everything leading up to it is just as wonderful! Be reading for the next 4 days as I take in this Honeymoon Adventure with camera in tow and towel in hand.

Singing, Strolling and Stilts

Every Thursday after Thanksgiving, Saratoga Springs reroutes traffic on Broadway to let dozens of hearty revelers wrapped in elegant embroidered coats and matching mitts stroll and sing on the city streets. Mutti and me weren't dressed nearly as fashionable but we still enjoyed the 21st annual Saratoga Springs Victorian Streetwalk with friends Stacy, Jen and Kim. We joined everyday carolers belting out Christmas classics from beneath City Center and the town hall steps and then elbowed our way to our favorite restaurant. Young and old alike huddled together to make merry music that transformed the city into a Victorian winter wonderland. All shops stayed open an extra hour with some offering up free refreshments and festive window displays. The lineup at a famous gelato/popcorn establishment, whose name I shamefully can't remember (too many spiked cocoa's) stretched all the way back a block and a half. A tall lanky street performer dressed as one Santa's elves paraded around on 12 foot stilts for curious children. He bounced, danced and amused the crowd for hours perched high above everyone's heads. He even managed to bend his body backwards to navigate heavy restaurant doors and entertain our cast of characters as well. Nowhere could his presence have been more welcome than in the Circus Cafe!