Rabbit Chasing and Camel Wrestling

Thousands waited patiently in dusty stands for the Minister of Tunisia to arrive so that the final day of festivities could continue. Everybody in Tunisia knows Wadya (Zena) and our Tunisian Official Ezzedine so we too managed VIP status and stood center stage to the action.

Always the last week in December, two towns go wild in celebration of the Sahara Festival, Tozeur and Douz.

Despite what you might have heard, camels are extremely intelligent creatures. They are raised traditionally for their wool, milk, skin and meat but certain breeds are adept at showmanship. Dozens of them paraded like horses, lockstep with each other during the opening ceremonies.

A short demonstration of camel fighting shows how they can contort their long necks to wrestle their partner into submission. It's an exciting sport to some but controversial for many so the festival limits the degree of fighting to only a few harmless bites.

Usually performed by older women, the 'hair dance' is popular in Saudi Arabia but here a dozen children swing their long loose locks to music. They sway side-to-side making figure 8's and circles with their tresses. How they manage not to kink their necks or get headaches is a question I never got to ask.

The 'dog and rabbit chase' jolts the audience to their feet laughing with delight. We were rooting for the bunny to escape the clutches of the Pharaoh dog, a Mediterranean breed called Kelb tal Fenek, which literally means rabbit dog, but the odds were stacked against him.

It was one dog then two then three, all racing with the grace, power and speed of a winning thoroughbred. Locked inside a circle of spectators the poor rabbit didn't know where to hide.

The Bedouin horse races finished out the day racing back and forth kicking up stretches of desert sand with a blazing setting sun on the horizon.

A Dusty Ride to Douz

Winding around hairpin turns alongside crumbling cliffs in the Atlas Mountains my heart pounded hard against my chest. I buckle myself in for a long, sometimes rocky ride, to the adobe brick city of Douz.

The narrow road is like a black-paved umbilical cord carrying our white Landcruiser into the heart of the Sahara.

A caravan of white RVs and Jeeps loaded with tourists move like a pack of camels across the desert ripping up a storm of dust. They narrowly dodge pedestrians wrapped in dirty turbans with wrinkled skin, graying mustaches and expressionless faces. Sun-drenched cultures frozen in time.

It's commonplace to see street cafes filled with men in ankle-length brown woolens drinking flavorful mint tea. They sit for hours on plastic chairs people-watching. Women are nowhere to be found.

After the mountains, the desert opens up into a vast sea of small grassy shrubs called Tamarisk and endless white salt flats. Baby camels stay close to the family. Fathers give themselves a morning rubdown against electricity poles.

Zena says that this used to be a giant ocean millions of years ago and dinosaur bones can still be found.

We are traveling through the Chott el Djerid; the largest salt pan in the Sahara covering over 4,000 square miles. The Chott usually receives five inches of rain a year but an unusual storm dumped that much in day this September. The results lead to massive flooding, destruction of homes and 17 deaths.

The Sahara Desert Comes Alive

After a few formal announcements and greetings the quiet rippling desert erupted into colorful pandemonium. Belly dancers, snake charmers, trained stallions, fire breathers, Bedouin musicians, jugglers and acrobats took center stage for the next hour and a half. Everywhere I looked there was something to see.

Musket shots blasted into the air while brave horsemen dressed in flowing white turbans galloped at moc speed waving their sabers in the air. The Nomads did the same with their children perched on their shoulders waving to the crowd.

The 42nd International Festival of the Sahara kicked off in the southern town of Tozeur yesterday. Nicknamed the 'Rhythm of the Southern Oases', about 3000 smiling Tunisians and delegates from Italy, France, Jordan, Algeria, Libya, Saudi Arabia and Kuwait crowd the stands for a performance spectacle.

The show began with dozens of youth carrying a giant red Tunisian flag and a life-size portrait of President Zine El Abidine Ben Ali while a beautiful rendition of the National Anthem, Humat Al-Hima, played. Local guide, Wadya - we call her Zena because of her attitude - showed a tender moment by breaking into tears while taking photos.



Traditional folk musicians dressed in silk tunics beat their drums loudly while a caravan of horses carry in a wedding Jahfa which brings the bride to her future husband according to the old customs.

The Saharan version of an American Wild West show continues for 3 days. This morning we depart in white Jeep 4x4s to the town of Douz for a continuation of camel racing, dog and rabbit hunting and more reenactments.

The festival is so much more than a one-day circus - it's a way of preserving a proud and ancient Saharan heritage.

A Place for History Buffs

Known throughout history as the the city that Julius Ceasar built, Carthage is a World Heritage site that can't be missed when visiting Tunisia.

Some of the remains are easy to distinguish like the Corinthian columns, sculptures, the mosaics and parts of the thermal Antonine Baths, which were once the largest baths built by the Romans. Others areas in rubble are left to your imagination.

I roamed through a maze of extensive lower halls constructed between 145-165 CE and marveled at what used to be a main pool as big as an Olympic pool. There are illustrations to represent what it used to look like. The wealth poured into public places like Carthage was overwhelming.

Too Much of a Good Thing

At the age of 122 years and 164 days, Jeanne Louise Calment was a French woman with the longest confirmed lifespan in history. She was born in 1875 and died on August 4, 1997. She ascribed her longevity and relatively youthful appearance to olive oil, which she said she poured on all her food and rubbed into her skin daily.

Loaded with this information, I decided to do the same. Every meal in Tunisia is more exotic than the next, minus the buffets which are okay but not nearly as satisfying as the a la carte dishes.

Suddenly, yesterday, my stomach stopped my hungry mouth dead in its tracks. There would be no more cultivating this tasty elixir with couscous and ragouts. Nobody told me that olive oil also acts as a rich and mild laxative! I'm recovering but slowly.

This hardworking fellow and his busy family were seen harvesting their olive groves alongside a lonesome road in northwest Tunisia. He was kind enough to break for a few minutes and explain the process for us. I hope I'm feeling better by Monday because it's off to a famous plantation with loads of free samples to try.

A Popular Christmas Snack

Especially during Christmas, demand for dates skyrockets in Europe and the states. But even though over 350 varieties are grown in Tunisia only a handful are ever exported. That's frustrating because if you've only had a date in a 'Fig Newton' cookie than you probably don't like them. Tasting a fresh date in Tunisia will change that.

Dates are used to make fragrant stews, curries and sauces. Every Sunday the markets of Tunis are crowded with stalls of dried, smoked and ripened dates. Dates here are much sweeter than in the states and travel well. Both my journalist cohorts will be packing pounds home in their suitcases.

We spent several hours in the markets today taking pictures of all the fresh fruit. What a treat!

Hammamet: The Tunisian Riviera

This pretty face was a rare find in the busy Medina of Hammamet, Tunisia. It was close to sun down and we were making our way to the museum when she stood out like an angel in my path.

She looked deep into my lens and smiled quietly while her parents looked on. At first I thought she might ask me for money. But, no. She was just as interested in what I was doing as I was in getting a photo of her.

Hammamet is a stone-walled tourist town on the Mediterranean, popular especially among Europeans. The souks (street shopping) sell souvenirs and pottery but beware that many merchants are pushy, even aggressive and rarely take no for an answer. I, for one, do not like to barter so I passed by ignoring their pleas and pressure.

To get to this legendary seaside fortress our driver took one of the world's oldest trade roads, a route dating back to 2000 years. Hammamet is also considered one of the best beach resorts as well. It's perfect for suntanning, beach-combing and people watching - as you'll easily notice if you're a girl.

Puppy Love in Tunisia

The Roman ruins, the fabulous seafood tagines (dishes) and endless sandy beaches, I'm enjoying absolutely everything about Tunisia. Even better is this new fuzzy friend I nabbed after our journey through the ancient city of Utique.

Utique is the oldest roman ruins that exist in Northern Africa. There are 2 houses that have been excavated along with a Punic necropolis or burial ground, flower garden and warm water natural spring well.

Through a cluster of cypress trees are two Corinthian columns overlooking beautiful marble mosaics and etchings of fish, turtles, shells and eels. A stone sarcophagi dating back BC holds the remains of a 17 year old girl's skeleton completely intact.

Our guide insisted that the sundial was built on a structure that looks like a turtle. Pictures of everything are still pending...

A Turkey Dinner Dipped in Liquid Gold

We made it to Tunisia just in time for Christmas Eve! The Sidi Bou Said Hotel treated us to a turkey dinner saturated in liters of liquid gold and spicy harissa. Lamb and seafood are staples here but our generous hosts made an exception for the Americans. There's even a decorated fir tree in the hotel lobby.

In Tunisia, it is illegal to cut down an olive tree. My tour guide Wadya (we call her Zena) tells me that doing so could land you in jail for up to 2 months and dozens of fines.

There are 83 million olive trees in Tunisia, more than any other tree and yet each is tended to and treated like it was the last. Nearly everyone, farmer or not, has one growing in their backyard, a sign of wealth for some. In fact, after textile and mechanics it's the third largest industry.

Inside the Belly of a Big Bird

As of November 20, Air France Airlines started using the largest passenger airliner in the world - the Airbus A380. But they only have one lucky bird in their fleet and yours truly took her maiden voyage in it last night.

Along with my newest traveling companions, John and David, we played hide and go seek soon after takeoff. The craft is that big! It was the video camera mounted to the tail that clued us into the plane's girth.

The A380 packs in 538 passengers and every seat was sold out tonight. About 200 sat in the upper double-decker spread and the rest of us, including business and first, sat comfortably below.

I was in coach, 4 rows from the back and 1 row from a screaming infant, but, hey, I was lucky enough to be aboard a $400+ million plane.

Meals and service do not take longer, like you might expect. I think twice as many flight attendants were hired to help. The flight was incredibly quiet but flushing bathrooms still kept me awake. The peep hole windows funnel down to the outside while a spiral staircase gives a wider impression of the cabin.

And the most talked about addition is the open cocktail and fruit juice bar. Anytime you're thirsty and need to stretch your quads, belly-up to the bar and pour yourself a cold one for free.

Tips for Traveling Pilot-Style

Time to pack for Tunisia.

Packing so often to distant lands is like second nature to me but it wasn't always that way. It took dozens of hours of squeezing, cramming and wedging to get it right. Even now I pick up lessons how to pack more efficiently every time I travel.

Lets begin with the luggage. I use a gray Eagle Creek Thrive Travel Pack to keep my hands free so I can carry my tripod in one hand and open doors with the other.

At the bottom of the Thrive Pack I stuff my clothes. I keep it simple. For an eight day trip I recommend no more than four pants and four tops. I never wear bluejeans because washing and drying pants is much faster and if you're entering holy places or fancy restaurants, Levis are never appropriate.

No jewelry, no sunglasses, no pajamas, no robes, no belts, no dresses, no skirts, no extra shoes. Wear only one pair of comfortable fashionable slip-on shoes like Merrills. Shoelaces just slow you down when going through metal detectors so leave your sneakers at home.

Next up, toiletries. I keep it super minimal starting with my favorite toothbrush and one trial size tube of toothpaste. I think small-size generic toothbrushes are a waste of money. My teeth never feel clean and the extra space saved isn't worth plaque.

Girls, don't bother with bringing shampoo, a good expensive conditioner is all you need. Every hotel, hostel and B&B offer up free shampoo but few ever carry conditioner. If not, use body soap on your hair and then a large dollop of conditioner. Don't fret, it's only 8 days.

Same goes for toting makeup. Forget about eye, lip, nail, hairspray, gel, mouthwash, even deodorant. All you need is a SPF-based pressed powder compact with a mirror along with Chapstick and sunscreen and you're good to go. The sunscreen alone acts as a lotion and moisturizer. Before you leave, fine-tune those toe and finger nails so short you won't need to bring a clipper.

Lastly, if you're like me, you wear glasses and contact lenses. Toss the trial size saline solution, backup lenses, glasses, compact, Chapstick, meds if you take them, small hair brush, toothbrush and toothpaste all in one large Ziplock bag.

Time for the heavy essentials that no bonafide videographer can leave home without: a Wi-Fi Mac laptop with power cable, cell phone and charger, Nikkon 35mm camera and charger, Iomega 500gig portable hard drive, my Sony EX3 video camera with batteries and charger, a backup Ethernet cable, one USB and one 400 mbps firewire cable, one control strip, one wireless lav mic, 2 double A batteries, converters and adapters.

My backpack is now officially heavy. I bound everything tightly around my clothes except for the laptop, still and video camera.

Lastly, my business cards, money, frequent flyer cards, credit card, tickets, passport and one felt-tip pen all get placed inside my favorite REI Travel Neck Wallet. No ballpoint pens! Felt tips write upside down and never explode. Photocopies of my travel documents are backed up on the laptop and portable hard drive should I lose them.

The laptop,cameras and Ziplock bag of toiletries get placed inside a Red Cross day bag that gets bungied to the side the Eagle Creek Thrive Backpack. No, I don't work for Red Cross but the logo is universal and that's always helpful when you don't speak a foreign language.

Okay. I'm ready! I'll hit the Amtrack from Rensselaer to Penn Station and then catch the A, E or LIRR for JFK. Oh wait - I need an empty plastic Poland Springs water bottle so I can refill it at water fountains anytime. Unless you're traveling to a third world country without proper sanitation, don't buy water, that's a waste too. Drink from the sinks.

Once I get to JFK, I check the Thrive Travel Pack and tripod but carry aboard the Red Cross day bag. I no longer look like a pack mule.

I hope I didn't forget anything...

Suited up Like Santa at the 5K

A warm woolen hat was barely enough to keep the sonic booms from blowing out our eardrums at tonight's Albany Winterfest.

Carrie cups her head as the shock waves blast the air minutes before we hit the pavement for the annual 5K 'Last Run of 2009.' Confetti-like TNT dusted our shoulders like new fallen snow.

The chilly temperatures kept the thousand runners huddled at the starting line. We dressed head to toe in hats, mittens, scarfs, long johns, legwarmers and dozens of layers or maybe that was just me.

Once the cloud of firework smoke lifted the gun went off and it was a very long first mile up State street.

My extra pounds of big bushy clothing was like treading water wearing SCUBA tanks wrapped around my legs. My heart was pumping and my nose was running but from the waste down I felt nothing but lethargy. Carrie, my Albany high school athletic guru, pressed me to keep going.

We slid onto the sidewalk for a roomier run. There were pockets of black ice, frozen snow drifts and directional cones to avoid. Carrie volunteered to pocket my two scarfs, babushka and mittens. It would take too much time to peel anything more than that off.

Along the route we met up with friends Ellen Picotte of Prudential Manor Homes in Delmar, running strong and staying alert. She and hundreds of others truly impressed me with their all-season tenacity and their ability to know how to dress for the occasion.

Washington Park was done up in holiday splendor with 125 blinking displays and a beautifully decorated Lake House. I vaguely remember many of the scenes because, at that point, I was battling blurry vision and burning thighs. Pathetic.

Hill after cursed hill, my wobbly legs were like two-ton bricks baking in an oven.

"At the second set of lights you can kick it in with long strides," announced Coach Carrie.



It was an embarrassing sprint down the same street I huffed up a half an hour earlier. Our friend Kim was somewhere close behind ascending fast and furious. Karen waited with cups of steaming hot chocolate and words of encouragement.

May this be my first and only 5K suited up like Santa Claus in 15°F temperatures!

America's Folly: Excessive Shopping

The 2007 docu-comedy "What would Jesus Buy?" is guaranteed to make you uncomfortable but in a good way. The message of over-consumption, accumulation, and the dangers of corporatism, especially during Christmas, is exceedingly serious. One of the facts in the film says that Americans spend half a trillion dollars each year on Christmas.

Reverend Billy (Bill Talen) uses shocking antics and bizarre performances to emulate a pentecostal preacher on a mission to save sinners, in this case - shopaholics. He and his choir get arrested in dozen of big box retail stores: Wal-Mart, Starbucks, Mall of America, while preaching against made-in-China junk and products made in sweatshops.

But if you look beyond the guerrilla-like parody acts and bleach blond hair, you'll find Talen and his wife Savitri genuinely eager to help humanity see the light. Of course, it's unreasonable and unrealistic to stop shopping altogether so the couple advocate for socially conscious choices like homemade gifts and using less.

Whereas some viewers might be judgmental or critical, the audiences at the Linda Norris Auditorium are always insightful and intuitive. My friend Carrie asked if they might feel twinges of guilt when they find themselves buying stuff from other countries? Another asked about the hypocrisy of fundamentalist Christians who support big business but teach against the dangers of greed and excess.

”If you want to be perfect, go, sell your possessions and give to the poor, and you will have treasure in heaven. Then come, follow me.” Matthew 19:21.

You can rally with Rev. Billy and the Church of Stop Shopping today at 1pm in front of the SUNY Administration Building. Students have been asking SUNY to go sweat-free for over 10yrs. Yet, only four campuses have made a real commitment by joining the Worker Rights Consortium.

Follow the Yellow Briq Road

This weekend my small family celebrated an early holiday gathering because yours truly is back on the road next week, heading to my favorite oil-rich Muslim country... olive oil that is: Tunisia.

Friends Ezzedine and Wadya extended the invite to the 42nd International Sahara Festival in the oasis town of Douz featuring Berber dancing, camel races and military displays on Arabian horses.

Photographer Great and GoNomad writer Paul Shoul wrote about this wonderful trip last year.

My Christmas feast in Tunisia will be fish instead of ham, briq (filled pastry) instead of bread, couscous instead of mashed potatoes and fig brandy instead of eggnog. All of it drenched in buckets and buckets of Yosra or olive oil as they call it.

My second travel article on Tunisia (yet to be posted) includes the importance of olive oil to the country's history, religion, politics, economics and culture. The cash crop is what wine is to Northern California or corn is to middle America. The land and soil has been cultivated for generations to produce the best possible olive trees. Add a cool drift from the sea and olive growers that use traditional methods of harvesting and you come up with a wonderfully flavorful fruit.

Okay, I'm a little too excited over extra-virgin but the restaurants really are that good. Cooked up lamb, camel, fish or shrimp and the liquid gold lives up to its name and reputation.

The Movement is Glowing

It's not even Christmas and already church bells are ringing out in countries around the world. It's all an effort to demonstrate the commitment of Christians who want to see the Copenhagen, Denmark Summit on climate change craft a global treaty.

In an act of unity, church bells in 139 countries tolled 350 times today. The action was initiated by the World Council of Churches with several people holding candlelight vigils simultaneously. Countries included New Zealand, Australia, Brazil, Canada, Belgium, France, Germany, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Sweden and the US.

350 represents the 'parts per million' that scientists agree is the safe upper limit for CO2 in our atmosphere. Emissions from industries, coal-fired electricity and cars significantly contribute to making the climate warmer. Over 100 nations agree that keeping emissions under 350ppm is the solution to harnessing the dangers of global warming that causes water levels to rise and dramatic swings in the weather.

One of those events was tonight from 7-7:30 in Schenectady at the First Unitarian Society Church on Wendell Ave. PilotGirl was there lighting candles of hope and standing in solemn solidarity with like-minded advocates. We sang 'Joy to the Earth':

Joy to the Earth - the time has come,
Our work has just begun.
Our Earth we'll not abuse,
Clean energy we'll use -
The power of wind and sun,
The power of wind and sun,
The power, the power of wind and sun.

No more let coal and oil burn.
And wars the men employ.
We own the Earth apology.
We'll use our green technology
To bring the Earth new joy, to bring the Earth new joy,
To bring, to bring the Earth new joy.

Earth's atmosphere so clean and pure
New health to all will bring -
To all her living creatures,
To all her natural features.
Now heaven and nature sing, now heaven and nature sing,
Now heaven, now heaven and nature sing.

Wicked Good Performance But Don't Bring a Camera

Last night, I watched a performance of the Broadway smash hit "Wicked" at the beautifully restored Proctors Theater in Schenectady, NY. This space is a vaudeville icon, it attracts the highest caliber of world-class entertainers, comedians, musicals, operas and orchestras.

For 12 years, I helped man camera for the Channel 6 Melodies of Christmas show. It's a special place to roam about admiring the original ornate decorations, red carpet and marble staircases.

Last night's show was fabulous and I have only good things to say about the venue, however the reception received by the ushers and the house manager left little to be desired. Approaching them with a question was like raising my hand in grade school and getting scolded for asking.

Before the show, word spread that the author of "Wicked", Gregory Maguire, was sitting near the orchestra pit. It would be a wonderful treat to say hello, share a few words and ask if I could take a photo. I inquired with the House Manager introducing myself as someone who would like to write a few passages about the show.

"You can't take pictures in here!" she abruptly responded.

Actually, that wasn't my question, I thought to myself.

In any event, the great American literature writer wasn't there so I promptly returned to my seat. Several ushers saw that I was carrying a camera along the way and berated me that no photography was allowed inside.

Okay, okay, I get the point! No photos in the theater. I'll tuck it under my shirt and pretend that I'm jolly 'ol Saint Nick.

That said, also be aware that if you need to use a bathroom during intermission, dash out of your seat as soon as the lights come on. My little sister, who has Muscular Dystrophy, waited in a long line that stretched back to the opposite side. No sooner had she reached the front when an usher shouted for everyone to return to their seats or the doors would close them out.

There were no other alternatives for my handicapped sister so she forwent her bathroom break and rushed back to her seat.

May I dare say that "Wicked" wasn't nearly as wicked as the people who volunteer for Proctors.

Shining a Light on HealthCare

Last night for an hour I broke away from the hustle and bustle of Christmas shopping and held a candle in support of Health Care for America. It felt good seeing a majority of support from a busy beeping traffic at the corner of Wolf Road and Central Ave, Albany. If only they too could have stopped and increased our size of 35.

Fred let me borrow his gloves because my digits were freezing. Joe, Nancy and Betty got me up to speed on the progress of the controversial government-run public insurance option. And Frank made me laugh when a lone Prius driver gave him (and us) the bird. A Republican hybrid driver? It's the devil disguised in sheep's clothes.

Several fear-mongering AM listeners jumped on our coattails to disrupt our hopeful spirit. They brought their own signs and banners. They shouted hateful mantras like "Kill the Bill that gives free insurance for food stamp recipients." We countered their ignorance with "What do we want? Healthcare for All - even Republicans!"

Book Your Dream Vacation

It's up, it's up -- Check out the GoNomad travel article for ideas where to stay and what to eat when you're in Austria and Switzerland this winter.

There are several specials for mountain top dining and timeless resorts throughout Switzerland and Austria. Plan now and you might celebrate the New Year along the banks of the River Limmat with church bells chiming and fireworks exploding. Mulled wine, food stalls, live bands and fireworks keep Innsbruck and Zurich partying all night.

Full House to see "Full Signal" Documentary

Great news! I just heard from my director that a documentary, that I was lucky enough to videotape, had overwhelming support at the Santa Fe Film Festival. In fact, the festival opened with Full Signal (and a sold-out attendance) and closed with the film too. On premiere night people lined up outside the venue waiting to get in and 50 people were turned away.

Besides the two festival screenings, local activists organized two additional screenings for local legislators, the media, and Department of Health officials. And various media outlets showed up for coverage.

Timing truly is everything because the City of Santa Fe just passed a vote to increase cell phone towers but because of the film, several council members publicly cited their concerns about the health dangers linked to EMF radiation from cell towers and cell phones that they would not have otherwise known about.

Several people pledged to work with other communities around the world to bring about a positive change to the Telecom Act and the FCC's guidelines. "This truly is a step in the right direction," said my director.

Now the touring of the US and International film festival track officially begins in earnest in 2010. I would like to see the film shown here at the WAMC Linda Norris Auditorium. It would be a sold-out event for sure. This film has the potential to affect real positive change wherever it's shown so if any of my readers think they would like to see it at another venue, let us know.

Check the Director's Facebook page for updates and keep your fingers crossed that a local theater, maybe even the Spectrum or The Palace Theater, will agree to show it.

Naughty or Nice at the Brew Ha-Ha

Some jokes were naughty, other were nice, others, like those told by local TV personality, Benita Zahn, mixed it all up for a rib-tickling good night of laughs.

It was no-holds bar at the Lark Tavern tonight. Benita confessed dozens of industry tidbits including three dirty 'words' she wishes she could use on the news and a slice of bathroom humor that sent me roaring. Her first time on stage and she was a natural.

It's no surprise though when National stand-up comedian, Greg Aidala teaches sold-out workshops to novices every month. He's been voted 'Best Local Comedian' for 2007, 2008 & 2009 and has taught over 80 students in Albany, New York since 2008.

Even a cold spell of snow did nothing to discourage customers from crowding into the Lark Tavern to see 'The Brew HA-HA'. I found a seat way in the back but as the adjacent bar got busier and busier, the jokes got harder and harder to hear.

My advice, go early, at least one hour beforehand, and aim for the front. Nothing is funnier than a punchline you can hear.

A Sneak Preview of a Christmas Get-Away in Europe

Last year I was invited to Munich, Innsbruck and Zurich to write a travel article about the festive Christmas markets. The 4500 word article, my longest yet, is partially online at GoNomad.com with the remaining half to be posted soon. Should you be fortunate enough to pick a place to visit this season, make it Germany, Austria or Switzerland. All three are amazing destinations. Here are a few sneak paragraphs from the adventure.

Aimless Strolling through Story Town
Tucked inside the Inn valley, shouldered by snow-capped mountains and colorful baroque churches, sits the charming Capital city of Innsbruck, Austria. The medieval Old Town section, with its pastel-painted, wedding cake-like buildings and labyrinth of alleyways invites aimless strolling for hours.

Like other European towns, Innsbruck in December is awash with busy Christmas Markets that have operated for centuries as festive meeting places for selling homemade crafts and ornaments.

Seeing Innsbruck from Beyond the Clouds
The twice Olympic-city of Innsbruck draws visitors from all over Europe, many come to ski the fluffy white stuff, others come to watch brave souls launch themselves from the 50 meter Bergisel Ski Jump.

Downhill Skiing in the Mutterer Alm Area
The last time Innsbruck hosted the Olympics was in 1964 and 1976. Collectively, there are nine groomed resorts to ski off-piste. I draw straws for the beautiful Axamer-Lizum, one of the mountains used in the Olympics.

It’s early December and there are still parapets of rock and bald spots visible where snow has yet to built a base. I skirt around the bare stuff as best as I can but I’m curious to explore every trail regardless of ability.

December Shopping in Zürich, Switzerland
By noon, we arrive in the notoriously wealthy city of Zürich Switzerland, where Euros are still welcome but locals prefer the legal tender, Swiss francs.

...On Spiegelgasse is the Cabaret Voltaire, the world famous “Dada House” where an anti-war art movement emerged during WWI (1914-18) to challenge the traditional beliefs of a pro-war society. I take a special interest in reading up on exhibitions of absurdist art that deliberately scandalized and shocked the public, creating an uproar among authorities.

Picturesque Old Town of Rapperswil
Rapperswil, the Riviera of upper Lake Zürich, is often referred to as the ‘City of Roses’ in the summer but in December the gardens turn to frost and a biting harbor wind violently shakes wooden shutters and windowpanes.

Maximum Pampering
This hotel ranks as a "Leading Hotel in the World” and Donna and I liken the spa treatments to being in an art installation by Georgia O’Keefe: rich technicolors of simple organic beauty.

Against a wall-to-wall window, overlooking a mantle of snow-covered tree branches, drifts a cloud of steam from the surface of the charcoal-colored infinity pool through to the heated pebble loungers. That’s where Donna is dozing and I’m about to unwrap my bathrobe for the soak of a lifetime in the outside whirlpool.

The Most Expensive Cup of Coffee in the World

Yesterday was the first time I was in Manhattan since a thief stole thousands of dollars worth of camera equipment by shattering my drivers side window, in my new vehicle. The crime happened in Newark, N.J. but now every big city scares me, regardless if I have equipment inside the car or not.

So last night, a friend let me spend the night in her brownstone on 95th Street after the Switzerland Extravaganza. When I arrived on the Upper West Side there were no free parking places so I parked in front of a sign that read "No Parking between 7am-10am".

"Fair enough," I thought to myself. I needed to be on the road by 7am anyway.

I tossed and turned all night worrying about my car. I worried too that I wouldn't get up in time to move my car by 7am.

Finally, morning came. I sprang from my bed and rushed out to my car at exactly 6:55am - five minutes before 7am. All was okay with my car and there were no tickets issued. Whew!

I jumped inside my vehicle and started the engine.

Then, I noticed a convenient 'Dunkin Donuts' store only 10 feet away. It was right there, on the corner. I longed for caffeine for the 2.5 hour drive back to Albany so I pondered the thought of spending two more tiny insignificant minutes ordering a coffee.

You know where this story is going...

There were no other customers in the store so the coffee took less than 2 minutes to pour and pay.

With a hot coffee in hand I walked back outside and who should I see issuing me a parking ticket but a lousy NYPD! It's now 7:01am and I've broken a coveted law.

"Stop, stop, why are you doing this?" I plead. I want to throw my coffee in his face but wisely I beg for mercy and apologize profusely. The NYPD is completely bereft of Christmas spirit.

The officer is from another country, he has a Spanish accent, maybe he doesn't understand me? He proceeds to make out the ticket while I plead in my defense. He is unflappable, like a robot going through the motions without a care in the world for my cries for leniency. He says very little and does not look me in the eyes.

Finally, he issues his only piece of sage advice: "Talk to the Judge" and then drives away.

I'm left holding a $125 cup of coffee which I promptly burn my lips on as soon as I drink it.

Image is Everything in Switzerland

The Switzerland Holiday Extravaganza kicked off in Chelsea last night, promptly at 6pm. Female writers were dressed head to toe in trendy nocturnal cocktail dresses with a handbag under one arm and a glass of vino in the other.

Under the bright lights, a fashion photographer snapped his camera and airbrushed my shiny cheeks clean. Bottomless glasses of white and red wine and plates of yummy hor'dourves made their rounds.

The red carpet was rolled out for a Suisse-style fashion show meant to humor the crowd. I held my breath as Heidi Klum was announced. Instead, an angel in white appeared blowing bubbles rather than granting wishes.



I finished writing a winter article about Zurich this week. It makes its debut on GoNomad.com soon. It's a 3000 word essay on where to shop, dine and sleep for the weekend.

I adore Zurich - it can be flashy and pretentious one day then charming and humble the next.