Whistling for Whales

"There she blows!" yells one of the passengers aboard the small motorized tour boat we took on off the coast of Nuuk, Greenland. Everyone swings their cameras to the starboard side just in time to catch a few seals fooling us with their playful nature. We're on a whale safari today to see one of the many migrating whales that live here through the summer. Unfortunately, it's a little late in the season and most of them are roaming the ocean depths closer to Iceland. The weather is typical of Greenland - cold, damp, overcast and foggy. It adds to the mysterious moody feel of the hunting grounds between inlets.

2 hours of rain later and both my camera lens and me are soaked to the bone without a trace of a beluga or hunchback. I abandon the top deck of the tour boat and duck under the canopy to warm up with tea and sandwiches. Our guide has done well in preparing our lackluster activity by bringing a stash of candybars. Might Orca like dark chocolate I ponder....

Back on shore more disappointing turn of events. Our helicopter ride above the icebergs is canceled due to the Dutch Chancellor and German President coming to town today. The helicopter was needed to escort them around Southern Greenland to discuss politics. Being that we're in a country with so few extra helo's hanging around we are far less important than they.

Ah well, maybe dinner tonight will make up for it. I'm hoping for a deserving taste of whale blubber, the same kind that so many Greenlanders survive on and enjoy raw. Yes, raw. One of the photos above was taken minutes before a fishmen scarfed down a bite of it licking his chops all the way.

The bottom photo doesn't show it but their cemetaries always face the ocean. It's a tradition that preserves the idea that the spiritual world need a fantastic view to rest in peace.