Pagan Customs in Berchtesgaden

This diabolical pre-Christian monster is one of a dozen who spend the evening whipping spectators with a birch switch called "Lebensrute." The annual pagan custom, terrifying for some, a treat for others, takes place in Berchtesgaden, Germany on December 5th.

Sounds fun? It is for the thousands of visitors who coax and cajole the sinister beasts called "Kramperl" into chasing them through the cobblestone streets. The parade also includes "Buttnmandl" wrapped in long stripped straw, ugly fur masks and heavy bells around their waist. The bells are so loud you can hear the trouble coming from a mile away.

The yearly celebration means the 'holy man' or St. Nikolaus is on his way. Dressed in bishop's clothes he and his cohorts determine who's been 'naughty' or 'nice' and hand out candy or welts, depending on the verdict. The monsters take no prisoners, be it a professional journalist or a little kid.

One of our writers got a little too close to the chaos and had her legs switched by the Lebensrute. Ouch! Even adults cower in fear from the brutality of these beatings.

I got caught in a crowd of rabble-rousers provoking the demons. We were jammed against a wall when the Buttnmandle and Kramperl surrounded us with anger in their eyes. Their bells were deafening. Several of us (just the girls) let out terrifying screams and ducked under to squeeze through the legs of the brave boys. Then I discovered why - they wore padded knee cushions and layers of protection. No wonder!

As expected, nightmares disturbed me for the rest of the night. Might have I lived through this as a kid I would surely need counseling later in life!