Blessing the Canelo Tree

Earlier in a blog entry, I described the Huilliche Community, indigenous people from the Mapuche culture. I got the chance to piece together this video of their ceremonial blessing of the sacred Canelo tree or cinnamon tree.

The Giant of Atacama

In the middle of a hot barren desert lies a strange homage to the Gods. It's an engraving of a figure with long thin arms, spiky hair (Simpson-esque) and what appears to be a large round bellybutton around the waistline. It faces east away from the Pacific Ocean on a plateau that protrudes out of the desert like an island in an ocean.

The geoglyph measures 282 feet tall and half that in width making it the largest prehistoric anthropomorphic figure in the world. It was shaped using thousands of tiny stones arranged by many different indigenous cultures somewhere around 1000AD.

This area is called Unita Hill and 'The Giant of Atacama' attracts visitors from all over the world. There are theories that say the figure has something to do with the changing seasons, stars and moon but nobody can be certain.

What surprises me most about this World Heritage Site is that despite nature's rough elements and human vandals, it has never been completely destroyed. Workers have retraced it so that it appears bolder from a distance but that is all they have fixed.

Trekking to the top of it was an unusual exception. On the farside is a panoramic view of miles of mountain range and windswept sand. Far off in the distance is a little oasis where flowers and fruit trees dot the desert.

It's deceiving but the altitude makes the short trek to the top a whole lot tougher than usual. Carrying my tripod, video and still camera I made it panting, wheezing and gasping for breath. My fellow 75 year old journalist nearly raced me there.

Throbbing Head, Beautiful Skies

Describing the last 2 days in Chile as "roughing it" is to put it mildly. Compared to the luxuries we spoiled press people are used to, living without electricity, water and internet was a real challenge. But the chance to see wild llamas, alpacas, flamingoes and indigenous cultures high in the hills of the world's driest desert made it all worth it.

The bus chugged along at 25 RPMs, up and over altitudes so high that even the carburetor had difficulty feeding oxygen to the engine to move faster. A slow crawl of 20 mph was all it could muster. At 12,000 feet, we battled popping ears, blood-shot eyes and splitting headaches. The pressure on my brain felt like a vice-grip.

But bodies adjust quickly and after arriving, we enjoyed a hearty meal of llama meat with quinoa (grain-like rice) then retired to shared bunk beds with soft feather comforters. "Move slowly" advised our guide "your body tires quickly here." He was right. After hauling my suitcase from the bus to my bedroom (only a couple dozen feet) I was winded and needed to sit down.

This is normal living for those who run the lodge. 24 family members of the Aymara culture live at the Taypi Samanan Uta in the Laguna Del Huaco reserve. Their home sits in a valley facing Bolivia in the distance and a rare white salt flat lagoon where hundreds of pink flamingoes migrate to to lay eggs. The facilities include regular toilets, sinks and showers but water is stored in big plastic jugs and used sparingly as you wash. Lights, appliances and power sources are usable only a few hours a day.

As the sun set in the west it cast a rainbow of colors on the clouds, mountains and desertscape. The Aymara people performed a ceremonial dance with musicians playing melodic instruments like the zampona, bombo and charango. Curious boys, not privy to television, gathered behind my camera to peer through the viewfinder while I taped the festivities.

This is springtime in the desert but at night temperatures fall to almost freezing. Small electric heaters are available but we were warned that they zap oxygen from the air so, wisely, we bundled up instead.

This place is not for the faint of heart but if you want an experience like none other this is where you want to be. It's not unusual then that 'Taypi Saman Uta' translation means "The house to rest in at the center of a very special place."

Videos of Sea Lions and Stone Stew

Sacred Steps Through the Puyehue National Park

These two beautiful faces are tied to a small indigenous group of Chilean inhabitants called the Mapuche. There remains only 26 direct descendants of this particular ethnic group called Huilliche. They still practice their own language, mythologies, ceremonies and diet.

It's rare that a gringo like me, from way upstate New York, finds herself participating in the native song and dance of the Huilliches, deep in the forests of the Puyehue National Park. But, today was special.

Dressed in colorful skins and knitted ponchos they walked us through a protected environment playing acoustic guitars and blowing on a horn instrument called a trutruca.

They stopped to worship the Canelo tree, a slender variety that produces a peppery bluish berry fruit used in cooking. Before taking us on a mossy path to see the Gol-Gol river and Indio waterfalls, we bowed our heads and asked the trees for permission to enter.

That was when my heart soared - such reverence for Mother Nature!

At one time, the Huilliches fished and hunted this land but today they oversee the conservation of it. The Chilean government was smart to put them in charge.

An Emerging Destination - The Lake Region

While soaring over Patagonia Green or Patagonia Virgin as they call it, the pilot circled this beast of a volcano called Puntiagudo. It's been dormant since 1869 but it's far more spectacle than anything you'll see in New Zealand and far cheaper to experience.

In fact, Southern Chile is no different than New Zealand for its dramatic appearances, hospitable climate, jagged glaciers and friendly service. It's one of the greatest emerging destinations in South America if not the world.

While flying overhead we also got to peer into the Valdivian Rainforest, the second largest temperate rainforest in the world with a short stop over in the small town of Hornopirén.

The views have been absolutely spectacular. The weather oscillates between 45-60 degrees. My crew stays busy sightseeing beautiful lakes and hallmark hotels.

Right now we are at an all-inclusive wellness and spa resort in the Puyehue National Park called Termas Puyehue. We are only 10 minutes from the border of Argentina. The park is covered by thick evergreen forests, endless riverbeds, thermal baths, flora, fauna, even ski resorts.

This magnificent hotel is in a valley with picture-perfect views of the volcanic terrain including Osorno. There is a network of paths and trails to hike, later followed up by several hot springs to relax in.



Last night, General Manager, Ivan Magdic shared some insight into the future of the hotel. Between now and the next 8 years, the owners are investing a whopping $200-$300 million building polo grounds, a bowling alley (the only one ever built inside a hotel), an 18-hole golf course, dressage, refurbishing all 131 rooms and adding 30 more.

"We can see ourselves just as popular as New Zealand in 5 years" said Magdic.

I can't imagine it taking that long once the word gets out about this spectacular area.

Even Tsunamis Can't Stop The Cueca

This photo was taken in the town of Maulin, Chile. A dozen children or so gathered to showcase for us the national dance of Chile, known as Cueca. It's rich in historical significance and has been the official dance of the country for the past 30 years.

The dance reminded me of the courtship between a chicken and rooster. It was later repeated by adults at the opening ceremonies of the Chilean Travel Mart show in the town of Frutillar. Adult dancers waved handkerchiefs and smashed spurs on the ground to garner the attention of the crowd. The back and forth spectacle made me laugh but it was obvious how difficult it was to perform.

The town of Maulin is special because it was here that the strongest earthquake ever recorded occurred in 1960. It measured 9.5 in magnitude on the Richter scale and generated one of the most destructive Pacific-wide tsunamis in the 20th century.

The Island of Chiloe, especially the town of Maulin was hard hit because it was closest to the epicenter. Besides the thousands who lost their lives, over 200,000 buildings and 130,000 houses were destroyed. It was a great tragedy that changed the pastoral agricultural land into low-lying bird sanctuaries.

Stone Stew with the Puñihuil People

Yesterday, I enjoyed a big bowl of Curanto, a traditional dish savored on the Island of Chiloé. 20 of us squeezed into the bucolic little farm house of an aging couple who have lived in the Lake Region all their lives. What makes this soup of shellfish, potatoes, veggies and chapaleles so unusual is that it's prepared in a hole in the ground. The hole is lined with stones, the ingredients are added and all is covered with seaweed, large elephant leaves and a blanket. We scarfed down plate after plate of it.

Who Pays for Luxury, You or The Country it's in?

Indeed, last night's stay at the Cliffs Preserve along the Pacific was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, exclusively meant for the rich and famous, or the occasional humble travel writer. Even the Prince of Monaco escapes here when he needs a day of fly-fishing, horseback riding or sea-kayaking.

"The average stay is 4 days" says Project manager Jim Ackerson, "anything less than that makes it hard to develop relationships."

Jim tries to explain the differences between his lodge and other posh resorts. The philosophy of the owner, multimillion dollar real estate mogul James Anthony (who visits here twice a year) is one of trying to give back to the local Chilean economy by buying fresh local meat and veggies, providing dental and optometry care for the poor and employing quality talent from nearby regions, the country is divided into 13 regions.

The lodging is indeed very expensive ($1200/per person per night) but building the infrastructure and the roads to accommodate such a beautiful place took 7 years and roughly $25-30 million.

The price includes your pick of a private or shared 4-bedroom villa with hot tubs, a fireplace, kitchen, bar, laundry and tv room, along with a 4-wheel Suburban taxi to pick you up at the airport. All meals, an endless supply of wine, activities like stone oil messages and 8000 acres of trekking is yours for the asking. All 7 villas also overlook a U-shaped expansive of sandy beach and jagged rocks. In the morning all you have to do is pull open the shades and paradise shines in.

But, the place doesn't just cater to a day of sun and surf. It aims to showcase the many social programs they help and the hardworking community that, in return, help make this oasis so special. A few months ago they even launched an interest in helping at-risk girls in local shelters.

Its a wonderful place with wonderful features and it was a treat of unexpected proportions.

Now the controversy... after Jim's speech, a few of the other journalists; an expat couple from NYC living in Brazil and two young hothead revolutionists from Chile debated the authenticity of his claims with me.

For their own suspicious reasons they took umbrage with Jim's approach, claiming his sales pitch was condescending and patronizing. They didn't like that he was recruiting American dentists to provide services to the poor when Chile has a number of qualified dentists who could do the same. They also presumed that the staff wasn't getting paid well enough, a guess made in haste but probably true (the average yearly income in Chile is under $10,000).

My buddy Max from GoNomad.com, says it was a classic case of 'socialism vs. capitalism' and I surprised myself playing devils advocate for the latter.

But, because I don't speak Spanish or live in South America it's impossible for me to understand their indignation. From Jim's speech, I took the Cliffs to represent a "rags to riches" story. The owner became a real estate mogul after working as a linesman in the telephone industry for 30 years.

And, again, from all appearances the staff seemed friendly and grateful to have jobs, considering the changing fishing industry has left 40,000 without full-time work.

As far as green energy goes, some alternatives are in place, perhaps not as much as what can be done but Jim left no illusions about that. And, social responsibilities goes a long way in my book and I was happy to hear the Cliffs volunteers to give back rather than be forced to.

So, why bite the hand that feeds you or take a marketing approach personally? I pick my battles with great care but this one was surely not one I was going to win.

Rocky Roads to Paradise

The internet connection in Chile has been sporadic at best, or at least in the places I've been, which is frustrating when I so want so badly to share this amazing opportunity with everyone. With every new fancy hotel (and not-so fancy hostel) I keep trying but with no luck. Lets hope this entry makes it to daylight.

Okay, so before retracing all my steps, how about you check out this short visual montage of the sights and sounds enjoyed on my first day in Chile.



Right after posting my last blog on Sunday, I rested my head at the spanking new Hotel Cumbres in beautiful Peurto Varas. This spacious (just opened up in July this summer) serves up one complimentary Pisco Sour cocktail during your first nights stay. Pisco Sour seems to be the nations beverage of choice, sometimes even a nice primer before a glass of Chilean red wine. I like it.

Rest was needed and lots of it so I soaked up in the pool and sauna and then fell vast asleep.

Early Monday morning, a bus pulled up and whisked us off to was explore volcanoes, hot springs, lakes and fjords in the Patagonia Green region. We did all this via bus, ferry and foot.

There is only one road, a winding dirt path with creaky one-lane bridges and loose rock, to take you from the closest airport (Puerto Montt) straight into the heart of this remote destination. When other on-coming buses in the other lane needed to pass us, our driver would swing off to the shoulder and wait his turn. That's how small a space some turns and rickety old bridges afforded us. A disconcerting ride unless you do what I do - fall asleep.

No, unfortunately, paving bumpy roads wouldn't be worth it (or at least hasn't been worth it in the past) because heavy rainfall washes away most of the efforts. But a huge investment in tourism has cleared the way for better road maintenance and a better quality of reconstruction. Hence, you'll see bulldozers and forklifts and piles of stones ready for action along the ride south to Hornopiren.

No surprise, there is less than 1 person per square mile in these magnificent parts. It's just not easy to build roads here. Those that do live here, in amall wooden homes, cling precariously to footing that can also be easily washed away during heavy spring rains. It's a risk they take living so close to a visual paradise.

Touchdown in Santiago

Touchdown!

GoNomad writer Max and me arrived in sunny but chilly Santiago, Chile a few hours ago. He flew in from Miami, me from Atlanta. Now, we sit and wait in a coffee shop across from the world dominated Dunkin Donuts contemplating a Ciabatta with eggs sunny side up.

The Delta flight was cramped tight but no crying babies so that was a blessing. Only one small scare. As our plane was pushing away from the terminal the girl sitting next to me unbuckled her seat belt and rushed to the front. She demanded to get off. She said that she had a bad feeling about the flight (did she mean she was sick or was it some kind of terrible premonition) and needed to get off immediately.

So, what were the pilots to do? They came to an abrupt stop and rode back to the terminal. The rest of us on the flight, especially me, were confused and even a little hesitant to stay on as well.

30 minutes later the plane resumed on course. While ascending into a storm cloud over Atlanta, I dug my nails into my seat. The plane bucked and sputtered and surely I thought this was why she got off. But, within minutes, the plane was out of the thick of it and we all breathed a sigh of relief.

The rest of the flight was absolutely uneventful, just the way I like it.

Mythology of the Greater Island of Chiloé

Santiago is the capital of Chile but I'm bypassing it altogether on the third and last leg of my trip to the Los Lagos Region. Right now, I'm staying dry as it rains cats and dogs outside of the Atlanta airport. The Delta business lounge is hyper busy but I've found an outlet for my Mac (a rarity when everyone carries their laptop) and a place to stretch my legs (a coffee table).

A bunch of guys are watching the Gator game on CBS, cheering on touchdowns every few minutes. I've got 16 windows open soaking in all there is to learn about Chile.

My adventures don't kick in until tomorrow, Sunday, noon time, but I'm staying busy listening to NPR - a Weekend Edition archive called 'Myth and Magic Infuse Chilean Island' by Julie McCarthy.

Julie describes the Chiloe archipelago as being rich with a spiritual culture based on the mythology of witchcraft, forest gnomes, ghost ships and warlocks. Despite the strong Catholic faith (or, maybe because of it) supernatural legends and lore are as strong now as ever.

The isolated scenery is just as other-worldly, with old volcanoes, snow-capped peaks and sparkling green hills melting in the island mist. It sounds absolutely fascinating and the ideal place for me to exercise my superstitious side.

Leaving for the Chiloé Archipelago

Chile, South America awaits my welcome in less than 24 hours. It's a country that has returned to democracy for the last 18 years and has made many strides in technology and politics. The county was the first to elect a female President from 2003-2006 and the number of people living below the poverty line has been reduced to under 5%, that's less than the US.

Having read so much material about the country, I can attest there are 101 reasons to visit and I'm not even there yet. Because Santiago is below the equator, their seasons are opposite to us so they're breaching their summer season while we are exiting ours. I'll make sure to bring exactly the same clothes I'm wearing now.

The biggest day of the year is tomorrow, Sept. 18th, when the country celebrates its Independence Day. The festivities continue for a week with a party called a fonda or ramada that brings together communities to eat empanadas and drink chicha (fermented corn drink).

I'll be arriving from Atlanta, a 9 hour flight, into Santiago and continuing onto Puerto Montt, a port city and commune in southern Chile. The trip revolves around the Los Lagos Region, a gateway to Chiloé Island and several smaller islands in Chile's inland sea.

My dear friend Denise was worried about my safety in Chile. Over a bottle of vino and roasted marshmallows tonight, I assured her that from a health standpoint, Chile is one of, if not the safest, country in South America. The water is safe to drink, food-borne diseases are rare, violent crime is rare and catcalls are common but harmless.

The peso/dollar exchange is still in our favor and credit cards are accepted nearly everywhere. ATMs are omnipresent so no need to even bring cash. Spanish is not my strong suit, I favor French and German, but I'll make due with my small phrase book.

I'm already learning that "cachai" and "al tiro" is slang for "get it" and is repeated often. Others useful expressions include "¿Habla usted inglés" and "No habla español", I've already aced those.

Chiloé is a 41-island archipelago that is as isolated from the country by as much as 1 mile. Only 130,000 indigenous cultures populate 35 of the rainy islands. I've been told that rich folklore and mythological spirits rule most of the islands but it's the Magellanic and Humboldt penguins on the island of Puñihuil that dominate. Adventures begin on Puñihuil but continue swiftly onto The Cliffs Preservein Patagonia, an eco-friendly retreat with a temperate rainforest and the famous Andean Alerce tree.

The tree-hugger in me is ecstatic to squeeze these giant sequoias, many up to 4,000 years old so I, most likely, won't be the first! It's the largest tree species in South America, growing to almost 200 feet tall and 16 feet thick. The leaves are big enough to simulate an umbrella should an unexpected spring storm open up.

The lake region offers one of the country's finest and wildest scenery imaginable, it's almost untouched in some areas. Should I stumble upon an endemic species not yet discovered I'll have my trusty Sony EX3 with me to record the moment.

Land Stewards of the Hudson Valley

After the Brueggers Bagel Run on Sunday, Nola invited me to a Mohawk Hudson Land Conservancy silent auction and gourmet luncheon.

Having just run 5K, I felt justified in gorging on banquet food and free deserts to my hearts content. But, more so, I was interested in hobnobbing with those who do so much to preserve the working landscapes of the Hudson Valley.

Sitting under tents just outside the historic home (with sneak tours of the inside) of Ted and Sherry Putney, a brain trust of directors, sponsors and benefactors tossed around themes like plant and animal diversity, clear air and water and recreational opportunities.

As my readers know, Nola and I bike in special places with beautiful vistas of the Capital Region and surrounding counties. These scenic areas would easily fall victim to suburban sprawl, big box retailers and power plants if not for ordinances and initiatives.

Also, my invite to the luncheon comes on the heels of watching several documentaries about farmers plight against genetically modified foods. I learned that not just parks, forests and historical sites need intervention but farm land is especially vulnerable to the insidious behavior of big gigantic bio-tech corporations like Monsanto.

Like a horror sci-fi flick from the 70s, I'm thinking Soylent Green, Monsanto appears unstoppable from the books and documentaries I read and saw this summer. Check out 'The Future of Food' for beginners on this topic. Director, Writer and Producer, Deborah Koons Garcia, examines how deplorable thugs like Monsanto prosecute innocent farmers on what they charge is seed patent infringements.

Thankfully, in our area, organizations like Scenic Hudson, the Open Space Institute and the American Farmland Trust aim to provide assurances that farmlands keep their agricultural heritage.

Our 'bread basket' stretches from NYC to the Adirondacks and yields fresh fruits, vegetables, dairy, livestock, wool, grain, even wine from 900,000 acres of farmland. There's no reason anyone should go hungry in this fertile valley.

Inspiration at the Bagel Run

50 year old Derrick Staley (right) and 39 years old Jonathan Bright (left), both from the Capital Region, sprinted through the Brueggers Bagel 10K Run in no time at all. In fact, they nearly beat out a good share of the 5K runners in the process.

Taking the final turn in front of the Albany School of Humanities, a tight squeeze to be sure, nearly two dozen runners came within seconds from a huge pileup collision with these two elite. Nola described it as too close for comfort. Minutes later a car exiting a driveway nearly smashed into Karen. Lucky for me, I was able to groove down Whitehall without incident.

But the most impressive feat came when 85 year old Michael Bartholomew and 82 year old Regina Tumidajewicz clocked in between 40 and 43 minutes respectively. Yes, you read correctly, both octogenarians, striding their way to the finish line with over 550 younger runners.

Michael doesn't let the onset of Alzheimer's or losing his wife to the disease 2 years ago slow him down. He has an infectious grin, a smile that stretches from cheek to cheek, and jokes that he wishes he had more hair. A few strands of gray is better than none at all, I quip.

For all those who think they're too old to start running, Regina got hooked in her early sixties. Her 13-minute mile pace is inspiration to all, especially her oldest son, who, in his sixties now, runs besides her during every race. Countless finish lines have been crossed by the two of them together.

Talking Travel at Avenue A

We're entering into everyone's favorite time to travel the Northeast - New England in all her glory.

Shorter days with maples and elms on the cusp of turning into a palette of gold, mustard and claret. Crisper temperatures perfect for donning the half price leather parka you bought months ago. And, fresh apple cider donuts and sweet corn on every farmers market food stand.

It's the perfect time to escape to the ocean too. The kids are back at school so the beaches are empty and elegant B&B's are affordable again.

Last night, the girls and me dined on appetizers at the stylish Avenue A on Delaware Ave.

Sound-dampening panels now hang from the ceiling lessening the loud acoustics. Our last minute reservation for 7 chatty gals was accommodated with a handsome waiter (as yummy as the chocolate mousse) and light tunes from Mile's 'Kind of Blue" album. The only caveat was the room temperature - it was downright warm in our corner and that wasn't because we ordered the spicy squid.

Still, over a smorgasbord of crispy Korean pancakes, coconut shrimp and pan fried Yakimandu, we traded our Fall travel plans.

Miriam heads out next week with her hubby to Block Island off the coast of Rhode Island. Nola has her pick of peaks for hiking. With help from GPS, Miho will navigate the back roads of Vermont. Jen already lives in picturesque Humarock, Massachusetts, so she doesn't need to go far. And yours truly, well, yours truly has been invited to South America, Chile to be exact.

I'll be eluding Indian Summer and heading straight to the Los Lagos Region for an international press trip with GoNomad.com. Invitations to new and exciting locations never grows tired and my bags are always packed so I'm ready! As an early precursor to the trip the girls ordered me a tall Chilean bottle of Sauvignon Blanc.

I'll be gone from Sept. 19-30, that's 11 days of deep exploration in the wildlife reserves of Chiloe Island and more. Overnights will be spent at eco-friendly retreats in the Patagonia preserve. Days will be left for sightseeing volcanoes, fjords and the magnificent Chilean Redwood forest. I'm bringing my bathing suit in case I'm brave enough for a dip in the Cahuelmo natural hot springs.

At some point the itinerary promises a stop in the Atacama Desert, the driest desert in the world, 50 times drier than California's Death Valley. As well an extreme hang gliding over the Andes and local gastronomy prepared by world-renown chefs.

Okay, okay, twist my arm, I'll go to Chile even though it disrupts leaf-peeping season in beautiful New England. I'll get over it!

Karen insists I see movies like Motorcycle Diaries and Maria Mittelmann, the organizer of my trip, encourages reads like "Travels in a Thin Country: A Journey Through Chile" by Sara Wheeler (Memoir) before I get there. This rainy weekend feels like the perfect time to do both.

Adventures in a Rumi World

The tall, curly-haired man in the middle is prolific Writer/Performer, Ian Pounds of Ripton, Vermont. The kids surrounding him are Afghan orphans in the city of Kabul. Through the support of the Omprakash Foundation & AFCECO, Ian taught these children, and many more, English, computers, photography and music for the past five months.

On April 14, 2009, Ian arrived in Kabul with only a Cittern (10-string mandolin), handbag and bright red duffel bag to his name, the first volunteer invited to live extensively with these orphans, and incredibly, a man living with sixty girls, ruffling the feathers of fundamentalist mores.

Through his daily online journal entries (hardly what I would call a blog) Ian penned the dramas and dangers of following through with what anybody would agree is a near-impossible goal: staying alive in a war-torn country.

Ian writes..."A man living among girls who in this country are of marrying age may incite a row...If we cannot convince parents of my role and trustworthiness, if we cannot find a way to get government official approval, to convince them this orphanage is an open book, that there are no radicals here, for security reasons I may have to... move to Pakistan."

But, stay alive he does, even finding a place for his Western ideals and virtues among Rumi literature, Islamic traditions and many mornings of Chi tea. And, as always, vigilant about who the Taliban are or where they might be, Ian plays it safe. To be discovered is a fate Ian knew would spell disaster.

But, naively or not, Ian's fears and concerns abate when he meets the beautiful, silly faces of parent-less children, like Nabila, Farzana, Omid or Malalai as well as Meetra, Nafisa, Frishta and Fawad or Ulfat, Sunbola, Mahbooba and Araj. 108 names in total, memorized and remembered by voice. The brains of these youngsters were like sponges soaking up how to count to ten and the days of the week in English, how to sing, how to e-mail, even how to love an American.

So vivid are Ian's descriptions and profound realizations that you, the reader, can't tear yourself away for a day from his confessions.

But, why dangerous Afghanistan? Why not any other needy orphanages in any other country, even right here in the U.S.? I want to ask him this and so many more questions while meeting him this weekend at Gloria's home but then I found my answer from this June 12 entry.

"I tell myself I have come here to build a bridge, no matter how small, in the name of duty if for nothing else. I’ve come here to gift some children with tools, love and maybe a few memories to carry them through the toughest of times. I’ve come to build a tiny model for my nation as it marches toward a milepost: one decade of war in this country."

Still, there's much to learn in Ian's passages about Afghanistan, none of which you'll read or hear on CNN or the major network news. His latest mission is to find 100 new sponsors for the children by New Year's. He's currently on a speaking "tour" throughout New England and will fly to San Diego in October to speak at five schools there. Emma Willard in Troy might be his next stop!

A Journey of Understanding

As promised, here now is a sample of my most recent travel article on GoNomad.com. It's about a Jewish festival called El Ghriba on the island of Djerba, in Muslim Tunisia.

"The island of Djerba, floating off the southeast coast of Tunisia, is a popular destination for relaxing in a traditional hammam, grilling your body on a sandy beach or haggling over handmade Andalusian pottery. Few realize that only a few miles away is one of the oldest Jewish communities in the world; some say it dates back 2,500 years to time of King Nebuchadnezzar, more....

Scottish Games in Altamont, NY

The Altamont Fairgrounds is hosting the Scottish Games all Labor day weekend. I stayed busy shooting pipe and drum competitions, highland dancing, Scottish dog shows and caber and sheaf toss contests. A sheaf is a 16 pound barrel of hay, wrapped in burlap and tossed by pitchfork over a bar. The bar is raised six inches at a time until all contestants but the winner are eliminated.

Director/Coordinator Bill Munro did double duty escorting me via golf cart from event to event while coordinating parking, bands and even fielding 911 calls. A hapless woman actually called 911 desperate for directions to the games.

A line of traffic on Route 20 stretched all the way back to Guilderland. Police were helpless to find enough space for everyone. Meanwhile I ducked crowds and tiptoed around judges for the best vantage point to shoot The Boland School Irish Step Dance demonstrations. Bill broke for 10 minutes to applaud his curly-haired red head granddaughter on stage.

The games continue today until 5pm.

Roadside Attractions Continue

This baby doe stood at attention as we slowed to a crawl to avoid hitting her near Delhi, NY. She and her older sibling were feasting by the side of the road on Route 357. They weren't, in the least, fazed by our cameras clicking loudly in their direction.

Between the deer and the many bucolic farms, rolling hills, scattered General Stores (and 60s XM radio), my race around the State of New York in the backseat of Cindy's car wasn't so bad. I'm not usually a passenger on long tedious journeys but this opportunity allowed me to stay busy with my camera rather than cruise control.

Roadside Attactions

Somewhere between Burlington and Rutland, Vermont I snapped this wacky work of art. It's a concrete 'thing' hoisting a VW Beetle high above its head. Cindy, my driver, wasn't about to stop and ask questions (we were already late for an assignment) so I did a little searching on Google. Turns out that 'thing' is actually a 16-ton gorilla constructed as decoration for a car dealership by Florida Sculptor T.J. Neil.

Using granite stone and a bundles of rebar he shapes dinosaurs, dragons, manatees, dolphins, Brahman bulls and people, many to scale or bigger and weighing in at several tons. His works are found all over the country, including a Plesiosaurs at Alpine Lake Campground in Corinth, NY, very close to Albany. His clients are often commercial but not always, some homeowners just dare to be different with some creative whimsy.

Long Shadows, Short Summers

Long Shadows are a sure sign that Autumn is upon us. Only a few souls soaked up some sun at Grafton State Park today. It was crisp and clear and the lake was as polished as a mirror. A beautiful day to walk the dogs and catch up on a hike in the woods. One week left before Labor Day returns for the start of school and the end of swimming. New York summers are too short.