Throbbing Head, Beautiful Skies

Describing the last 2 days in Chile as "roughing it" is to put it mildly. Compared to the luxuries we spoiled press people are used to, living without electricity, water and internet was a real challenge. But the chance to see wild llamas, alpacas, flamingoes and indigenous cultures high in the hills of the world's driest desert made it all worth it.

The bus chugged along at 25 RPMs, up and over altitudes so high that even the carburetor had difficulty feeding oxygen to the engine to move faster. A slow crawl of 20 mph was all it could muster. At 12,000 feet, we battled popping ears, blood-shot eyes and splitting headaches. The pressure on my brain felt like a vice-grip.

But bodies adjust quickly and after arriving, we enjoyed a hearty meal of llama meat with quinoa (grain-like rice) then retired to shared bunk beds with soft feather comforters. "Move slowly" advised our guide "your body tires quickly here." He was right. After hauling my suitcase from the bus to my bedroom (only a couple dozen feet) I was winded and needed to sit down.

This is normal living for those who run the lodge. 24 family members of the Aymara culture live at the Taypi Samanan Uta in the Laguna Del Huaco reserve. Their home sits in a valley facing Bolivia in the distance and a rare white salt flat lagoon where hundreds of pink flamingoes migrate to to lay eggs. The facilities include regular toilets, sinks and showers but water is stored in big plastic jugs and used sparingly as you wash. Lights, appliances and power sources are usable only a few hours a day.

As the sun set in the west it cast a rainbow of colors on the clouds, mountains and desertscape. The Aymara people performed a ceremonial dance with musicians playing melodic instruments like the zampona, bombo and charango. Curious boys, not privy to television, gathered behind my camera to peer through the viewfinder while I taped the festivities.

This is springtime in the desert but at night temperatures fall to almost freezing. Small electric heaters are available but we were warned that they zap oxygen from the air so, wisely, we bundled up instead.

This place is not for the faint of heart but if you want an experience like none other this is where you want to be. It's not unusual then that 'Taypi Saman Uta' translation means "The house to rest in at the center of a very special place."