Flix Pix by the Pro's

Wow - what a difference a year makes. Not long ago everyone was living sky high and now 200,000 retail stores are going out of business, everyone's stock portfolios are in the dumpster and jobless claims are spreading like pink eye. Oh yah, Happy New Year to you too.

The cheery news is it's the best time of year to escape to the movies or queue up on Netflix. Here now are three 'Top Ten Movie Lists' from three local film aficionado's. Each have a flare for filtering through celluloid debris to find hidden gems worth watching.

First up, former colleague and brain cancer survivor Dan DiNicola insists you try these on for size: "The Curious Case of Benjamin Button," "Frozen River," "The Visitor," "The Wackness," "Milk," "The Reader," "Frost Nixon," "Rachael Getting Married," "Slum Dog Millionaire" and "Happy Go Lucky." Dan's picks come from a recent review aired on Channel 6.

Film and entertainment favorite Jay Bobbin limits his choices to movies that actually played in the Capital Region in 2008. His selections include "The Dark Knight", "Definitely, Maybe", "Iron Man", "Milk", "Rachel Getting Married", "Sex and City: The Movie", "Slumdog Millionaire", "21", "The Visitor" and "Wall-e." I, for one, will continue to pick Mr. Bobbin's brain despite the shocking circumstances of his recent layoff from Channel 13.

And last but not least, local musician and national award winner (The Mar Com and The Communicator) for his movie reviews; Rick Bedrosian. Who doesn't know Rick, longtime lead singer/producer of the ever-popular Irish band 'Hair of the Dog'? Rick sees about 120 new releases a year, spending more time inside the Spectrum 8 than on stage. His quick picks include: "Rachel Getting Married", "Transiberian", "The Visitor", "Burn After Reading", "The Orphanage", "In Bruges", "The 11th Hour", "Religulous", "Tropic Thunder" and "Traitor."

I'm ashamed to admit that I've only seen two or three on each list but because "Rachel Getting Married" makes all three, it will be the next in line and that's despite how I feel about the word "married."

Maui Wowi with a Dash of Kona

Got a surprise phone call the other day from Dad and his wife. Both are living large on the sandy coastline of Hawaii, Maui, Kona and one other island whose name escapes me.

Like me, Dad likes to go 'where no man has gone before' and so sets foot in 'no-trespassing' and 'do not enter' areas all the time. After all, “it’s not the destination, it’s the journey.”

While on the island of Maui they found themselves twisting and turning through 52 miles of hairpin S-curves in a rented Volvo. The dusty paved road is the old King's trail strewn with one-lane bridges, gushing waterfalls and eucalyptus groves. The stretch offers panoramic ocean views of whales mating and dolphins playing in the waves. Dad's description of the lush surroundings sound stunning but it's an encounter with a braided hippy chick that is most enchanting.

The two stop to admire the commanding views of the mountains when a teenage girl offers Dad some homegrown Maui Wowi, "the good stuff," she said proudly.

"Might this be legal here?" he asks his wife.

They are, after-all, in one of the most remote and isolated areas of the United States.

Carol thinks about how it might help her battle her lung cancer. Dad thinks about his days as a wild youth. The two seriously consider but then decide that nature's healthiest organics are better left for the locals. They decline but not without finding out that Kona coffee is just as potent a drug and equally as tasty.

Tomorrow they hop a helicopter for views of lakes, streams, waterfalls (and maybe even Maui Wowi plantations) only visible by air.

Woodstock - "The Colony of the Arts"

Woodstock is rich in history, cultural heritage and world-class arts. When Mutti and sis read my last blog, they insisted I take them back for a Sunday sojourn. Twist my arm, of course I'll take you!

We trotted around town under an overcast sky making shop stops at Topka, Pondicherry, the Byrdcliffe Gallery, Timbuktu, Sweetheart Gallery, Candlestock, and the Tibetan Emporium. Mukluks from Minnesota, aboriginal didgeridoos, Bulgarian hand-painted pottery, Tibetan wall rugs, hemp backpacks, beautiful wall calenders from India, Woodstock has more than it's share of unique gifts - gifts for next Christmas so my thinking went as I bagged some red-tag whimsy. Inside Candlestock is a tower of growing candlewax. It started dripping color in 1969 and at 11 feet and then some, it continues to grows a few inches every year.

The town is always crowded so we waited until after the lunch rush to eat. Sis and I shared 2 plates of zucchini flat cakes at "Joshua's". The homey restaurant has an equally quaint tapas cafe/coffee bar on the second floor. While on assignment with CBS news I stopped here years ago and have been hooked every since.

Lastly, I have to mention one other shopping gem I found thanks to Nola on Friday. It's 20 minutes outside of Woodstock and a little confusing to get to so pay attention. It's called the "Crafts People", 4 vast wooden buildings with the largest collection of fine crafts in the Hudson Valley. 500 artists and craftspeople, some of the finest in the U.S. sell their unique creations for half as much as usual. The owner will offer you wine or mulled cider the minute you drop by for a visit. Be careful not to knock anything over perusing the jewelry aisles, stuff is swinging and swaying from the ceiling like cobwebs.

A Little Borscht Belt History

Tourists still flock to Woodstock to wax poetically about counter-culture, the social revolution and libertine attitudes. Then again others like to think beyond the "Swinging Sixties" to a time of grandiose Mountain Houses, horse rides and train trips.

Each have their place in the Borscht Belt. First, in Woodstock, you can wander in and out of incense shops, buy some local beads or join a drum circle in the summer. In the winter, the sidewalks are not quite as crowded but still free-spirited, playful and earthy.

I'm not sure who this happy hippie is, jingle bells, flowing robes and all, but he's a permanent fixture in this artsy colony.

Following that you drive 3 miles west, up a windy narrow road to a parking lot just big enough for 10 cars. It's here you don your boots and bug spray in the summer or crampons in the winter and climb Mount Overlook. As mentioned on last blog post, Nola and I hiked this tiny mountain on Friday.

At a height of 2,920' we found the shell of this 1928 Mountain House incomplete and crumbling. Information gleaned from Hudson Valley Ruins says the place "suffered financial difficulty, and it was hard to transport guests to the site." Two others before this serviced guests in splendid opulence and modern conveniences.

Posh hotels or Mountain Houses in the Catskills catered as fashionable playgrounds for the rich and famous from the 1830's to the turn of the century. Of the 1000 hotels and 2000 bungalow colonies in the area, only the Mohonk still exists. That's a sad fate for one of America's most beautiful wildernesses.

Finally, for a little energy boost, feed off a short lecture on enlightenment at the Tibetan Buddhist Monastery (right across from where you parked). Nola and I closed out the day with a short conversation on chant and meditation.

Savoring the Sights with "Honey"

It was a crisp, slippery morning, but if a dog named "Honey" can climb Mount Overlook in the dead of winter, what's your excuse? This 10-year old poodle trotted his way to the top of a Catskills high peak with his Master in tow today. That's 35 ascents, descents and counting for this dynamic duo.

Nola and I were sharing a spot of warm tea near the fire tower, right past the ruins of the Overlook Mountain House when we spotted Honey's little red Christmas vest and cute red bow tucked behind his ear.

It didn't take long for the poor pooch to start shaking and shivering. The temps on top were much colder than down below. Honey's owner, wearing nothing more than a sweatshirt and jeans, cued the dog for the descent. Away the two trekked, gone as quickly as they came, with no way of catching up to either, even if we stripped off our crampons and extra backpack weight.

The wide old wagon road trail to the summit of Mount Overlook is 2.5 miles and takes about 2 hours to climb. Bundle up nice and tight, especially if it's windy and don't forget Kleenex, Chapstick and a good set of walking poles.

You'll pass hardy locals from nearby Woodstock wearing nothing more than tie-dye trench coats and ill-equipped Manhattanites wearing nothing more than long fur coats and mascara. Inevitably, only "Honey" and company will make it to the top for a cyclorama worth freezing for... well, not quite, but it is one hell of a view of the Catskills.

To Tree or Not to Tree?

Another year and again I'm at odds with having a natural tree in the living room or pulling out the dusty petroleum one in the basement. Compared to the destruction of trees in the Rainforest, Burma or Borneo, Christmas should be no big deal. Still, the idea of chopping down Charlie Brown and watching him rot on the street is more than I can bare.

So, what to do to reconcile my conscience while working towards a greener lifestyle?

The good news is I can't simply justify using miles of wrapping paper, bows, tape and ribbons and not buy a tree. I also can't simply justify spiking my energy use with decoration and lights and then not buy a tree. Thirdly, plastic trees require manufacturing and most end up in landfills eventually.

Buying a homegrown tree supports reputable local farmers and guarantees more replanting. Buying from growers with environmentally sustainable credentials and staying away from non-organic growers that use pesticides is even better. And, when it's time to toss it away, make sure your highway department makes mulch from dead trees rather than disposing in landfills.

Growing up I always had a real tree. I think it was Douglas Fir or Norway Spruce that dotted our property. Every Christmas, we'd trample through banks of snow pulling a toy sled and handsaw behind us and find the perfect fresh pine. We lived in the sticks so there were enough trees to go around and besides, come Spring, we'd plant 10x more to replace the one we cut. Maintaining fond memories and habits while saving the environment was easy then and still can be.

Before it freezes, dig a hole in the ground, cover it and come Christmas, buy a well-developed root ball tree from a local nursery. Enjoy and water the tree over the holidays and then plant it in the backyard.

A couple weeks ago a furious ice storm in the Northeast resulted in thousands of broken evergreen branches. Just the other day I noticed those branches on the tops of Subaru's and SUV's. What a great idea to save green while staying green.

I'm sure there are many more options and if it's not too late to comment on your ideas, I welcome them here. Enjoy the holidays everyone.

Common Sense Health Care

While in Europe I was terribly sick the first 3 days, presumably, a stomach flu contracted while still in the states or the 8 hour flight over. You wouldn't know it from my blog entries but I struggled to meet the itinerary. The other journalists implored me to stay out of their breathing space and happily I complied holed up in 3 hotel bedrooms until I felt better.

Finally, while in Innsbruck, the guides offered to take me down the street to a local pharmacy. It was a Saturday and the place was closed but a pharmacist with more training than a doctor stood vigilant at a small window assisting those needing medications. She was dressed in a long white coat, a wide smile and caring eyes.

"Wie ist Ihre Symptome?" she asked me.

In English I replied, "Well, I have terrible stomach cramps, a fever, chills and diarrhea."

She turned away from the window and reached for 3 small bottles on the store shelf behind her. She pushed the medications through the small window opening and described what each could do for me.

I was in no obligation to show insurance, identification or fill out any paper work. I didn't need to wait for a doctor's appointment, pay a co-pay or show up with a prescription. Despite stores being closed on weekends, the system still proved efficient and simple.

I happily agree to pay a small sum of 40 Euro or $65 for the natural herbal medication, the over-the-counter Imodium AD and something for my high temperature. 4 or 5 people waited in line behind me but the line moved quickly. I took the meds that evening, slept for another 12 hours and woke up back to my true self.

With nearly 46 million Americans, or 18 percent of the population without health insurance and four out of five of those "uninsured" Americans employed, it makes no sense not to provide universal health insurance like the Europeans.

Honor Thy Neighbor

Check it out -- my poor Vietnamese neighbor, I bet he didn't expect this when he applied for his Visa!

All the neighbors are out in full force this morning, the Vietnamese family, the Indian family, the Irish-Americans down the street, etc... The sounds of Toro snowblowers and ice scrapers trouble me awake but I did my duty late last evening to ease the burden today. With crust still baked into my lids I lift my bedroom blinds and find a gift better than anything I could get on Christmas day. My driveway is clean!

Tim, my neighbor to my left has a heart bigger than a snowdrift and again this season he's treating me to my first of many free driveway cleanings. At the crack of dawn Tim motors up his Sears special, directs the bucket thrower in the direction of his lawn and happily builds mountains for his kids to slide off. After all is finished on his side he ventures over to do the same for my driveway.

I'm a shoveler and that's fine. I have a grass pusher in the summer and I push snow with a wimpy shovel in the winter. It saves money, the environment and it's a great exercise regiment. Still, there are dozens of things I'd rather be doing and should be doing.

Happy Holidays Tim and family! Even though your outdoor holiday decorations, blinking like crazy in rhythm to Fa La La La La, give me a small seizure when I walk Rocco, your kindness and benevolence light up my world!

Lots of Lava, No Snow

Whew! My folks actually made it to Hawaii just in time to avoid the first big dump of the season. Great timing to get out. Dad and his wife have been saving all their lives for this 3-week vacation and with a stubborn cancer rearing it's ugly head every few months, it's a much needed respite for my Stepmom.

Already this morning, a heartwarming text message came through on my cell that proclaimed that Hawaii "is the most beautiful place in the world." Granted, I'd much prefer laying in the sand than shoveling my driveway for the third time today.

BMW Welcomes You to Munich

Money is no object for BMW. Check out the size of this advertisement at the Munich airport. If only Detroit could say the same. If you step on the starter switch on the floor, the sound of an engine turns over and lights on the grill light up. Mark couldn't get enough of this interactive exhibit.

Munich is home of BMW headquarters so it makes sense that they would pour money into airport displays. If you can't afford the real thing, terminal 2 has a small BMW shop with T-shirts, keychains and a pedal and chain unit pushbike.

By the way, I'm finally home but like what happens with most road trips, my mind is still basking in the hot spas and cold lagers of the Old World.

A Century of Tofu

Whether you're a vegetarian or not, Hilti is the oldest (operating since 1898) and best vegetarian restaurant in Europe. The last meal of my Swiss Alps journey wrapped up with lacto, Italian, vegan-friendly and Indian fare from a buffet crowded with travelers.

Approximately 1200 hungry guests eat here everyday and party at the modernized club in the adjoining room by night. The restaurant gives you huge round white plates but with so many choices, the space fills up fast. Fresh fruit, I wasn't expected to eat nearly as much as I did. It's not an all-you-can-eat but rather the weight of plates determine how much you pay.

The urgency for the restaurant came in 1901 when Restaurant Manager Ambrosius Hiltl contracted rheumatoid arthritis. His doctor did not beat about the bush but prophesied an early death if Hiltl did not completely alter his diet and refrain entirely from eating meat. At that time, vegetarians were mocked as grass-eaters, but Hiltl paid no attention to the naysayers and recovered completely from vegetarian cuisine. Three years later he took over the business and he and it thrived.

Singing and Shopping in Old Town, Zürich

In the heart of Old Town Werdmuhleplatz, Zurich in December you'll see and hear this singing Christmas tree. It sings carols in English so you can sing along too. How festive, how cute, how perfect with a warm cup of spiced Gluhwein.

Old Town, Zurich on the east and west side of the River Limmat hypnotizes visitors into 14th century nostalgia. It's a labyrinth of charming alleys and alcoves, colorful window displays and commercial street artists. At night, the smell of chilly mountain air hangs over lighted Christmas decorations and shiny reflective cobblestone streets. Retail shops close early but most keep their lights on to tempt you to return during the day.

I did so on Saturday with quick stops at a several department and grocery chain stores like Globus, Manor and Migros. Here you'll affordable alternatives to fancier confectionery and conditerei shops and if good enough for the locals...

Like a battery plugged into a 220 light source, I wheeled around a grocery card in a frenetic hurry to scoop up all the sales. I bought pounds of old-fashion Strollen and Lebkuchen for Mutti, boxes of Marzipan for sis, Dad, Buzz and Carol and Swiss Tirggel, honey cookies with beautiful carvings on their surface, for friends. It's going to be a feast to remember this holiday season.

FYI: By law shops must close Monday-Friday no later than 8pm and on Saturdays by 5pm. Shops may not open on Sundays or on public holidays. Typical shopping hours are from 9am to 6.30pm (except on Saturdays). Special laws allow shops within the confines of a train station to remain open seven days a week. The same applies to shops attached to gas stations.

Rapperswil, City of Roses

The "City of Roses" lives up to its name in the summer but in the winter, Rapperswill, Switzerland is a quiet harbor town with fantastic rooftops and a history that dates back to 1200. It's an easy train ride 30 minutes south of Zürich along the Zürichsee. A relaxing romantic lakeside boat cruise is also an option.

Three of us dashed to make the departing S-Bahn rail link from our Zürich hotel to Rapperswil on Friday morning, but the crew pulled out without us. No worries, we easily caught the next train twenty minutes later. Navigating the transit system in Zürich is easier than most as well as cleaner, quicker and more comfortable than the NYC Metro.

Finally, Italian Mediterranean fare! Our cohorts in the lead warmed our seats and prepped our vintage at La Scala, a restaurant by the bay owned by a singing Sicilian. Peter likes to carry a melody while his guests wait for their dishes but today we were in a bit of a rush so he catered to our every whim instead - that included more Pinot please. My dish of creamy piping hot risotto tamed the shrew gurgling in my belly.

Sacred Destinations

A few blocks from my hotel sits this charming symbol: the Grossmünster, a Romanesque ex-cathedral. Our guide gave us a brief history including the legend that the graves of three early Christian martyrs are buried here. There was no time for closer inspection of the crypt but it offers a wonderful view of the bridges over the River Limmat.

Cheese; Food of the Gods

This is an electric Suisse Raclette set, a fancy grill that cooks the veggies on top and melts the cheese underneath in small pans known as coupelles. Like Fondue, it's an especially popular dish in Switzerland during the cold winter months.

Last night we dined atop a hill overlooking the lights of Zurich called Uto Kulm. It took a half hour train ride and a brisk 20-minute climb uphill to reach the restaurant. Along the way, evergreen trees decorated with Christmas lights turned the dark abyss into a winter wonderland. It had snowed earlier and the branches weighted heavy with glistening white powder.

I was feeling gitty from the thinning altitude and a hungry stomach. We reached the top where party dwellers huddled around campfires roasting bread on a stick, similar to what we do with marshmallows or hot dogs in the states. A Suisse Italian banker by the name of Marco offered me a sample... and his area code. I took both!



Before long, we were escorted to our seats inside the restaurant where 2 Raclette sets, one on each end of the table, waited. My mouth watered with anticipation. The cheese was the traditional Raclette, a semi-firm, salted cheese made from local cow's milk. The server brought a plate of ready-sliced cheese, a dozen tiny white cups filled with condiments and a basket of boiled potatoes. We took to the feast like sharks in a pool of chum (or at least I did).

It was the perfect meal, one I had been relishing and craving for days. I thought nothing could beat it until I dined at Hildl but that blog will have to wait for another day. I'm too full to think.

A Castle Fit for a King (or Albanian)

An outdoor infinity pool high in the mountains overlooking Zurich with yours truly enjoying all the amenities. Now, really, does life get any better? If socialism can provide this in Switzerland, I say, why not the U.S.?

Donna takes all the credit for finding this rare gem. She and I ducked out of the zoo tour, which would have been quite delightful if we had the energy, rather to enjoy a day of R&R at the ultra-posh Dolder Grand Hotel.

For 4 years this 5-star has been closed for renovation. Finally, in April 2008, the owners, both Swiss, cut the ribbon to show off the transformation of this classic structure. Despite the economic slowdown in Europe, it's booked solid right now.

Not surprising, hundreds of millions of Euros went into crafting the Grand Spa using the latest in geothermal technology (transfer of heat to and from the earth); another reason why this hotel ranks as a "Leading Hotel in the World."

Donna and I liken this place to being in an art installation made of Bisazza mosaics. Swimming in the indoor and outdoor heated whirlpools was like moving through a museum exhibit, or better yet, being a part of the show. We had the place to ourselves for a good part of the morning so we made use of a long steam, then napping on heated pebble loungers called Sunaburos, then running around in our b-day suits in the anti-aging nude zone. Sorry, no male peeps allowed.

A special aura surrounds this picture-perfect castle. Light inside the Grand Spa bounces off the stone walls, mirrored ceiling and the large bay windows inspiring a Zen-like Japanese harmony. And, especially in winter when the frosted trees hang heavy with a mantle of snow, this is the best time of year to visit.

But, alas, there is a catch...moola, lots and lots of it. But, I'll save the price tag for another blog entry as to not ruin the fantasy my press credentials offer me when I'm on these fabulous journeys.

Zurich; Gateway to the Alps

There is nothing more comfortable, safe and reliable than to travel by train while in Europe. Donna and I should know. We coughed up a little extra to swap our first class passenger tickets for a cozy cubby in business class. The 4-seater cabin fit all our luggage and provided electricity for our Apples, a rug to kick off our shoes, large windows to gaze at the Alps and a mini table to dine on. The train sped alongside a bright aqua river from Innsbruck to Zurich in record time, little less than 4 hours.

We are now in the notoriously luxurious Zurich, Switzerland, where Euros are still welcome but locals prefer the legal tender, Swiss francs. During the month of December the city Rail-City Complex is also the Zürcher Christkindlimarkt. This Christmas market claims to be the largest indoor in Europe but once we arrived, we were rushed through so fast everything became a blur, including a gigantic tree dressed head to toe in Swarovski crystal.

But tomorrow is a fresh day with great expectations. After dinner tonight and before I retire for the evening, there is a list of 50 museums, 100 art galleries, riverside and lakeside bathing and/or hiking the Uetliberg mountains to pick from. Or, perhaps I'll sleep in after a long night of clubbing in the trendiest night spots in Europe. The options are endless.

I just got word that the restaurant we are dining at was enjoyed by Goldie Hawn and Kirk Russell two weeks ago. If it's good enough for them...

Five Star Stay in Innsbruck

Marketing Manager Lars & company of the Grand Hotel Europa treated us to a fabulous evening of more Austrian fare last night. Do I dare say that I ruined my appetite a few hours before at Burger King? It was the skiing that did it! Still, the 3-course meal was enjoyed by a grateful press crew followed by an apricot dessert with a dollop of fresh Bavarian cream.

Hotel Europa, the only 5-star hotel in Innsbruck, is a 140 year old gem undergoing an extreme make-over to be completed in the Spring, 2009. Tens of millions of euros are helping refurbish outdated furniture, the exterior facade and the spa/jacuzzi/pool room.

A well-known Italian architect from Rome is helping meld the cherished traditional look of yesterday with the new polished tech-savvy contemporary rooms of today. There will even be I-POD stereo sound availability in every room.

Famous peeps like The Rolling Stones, Cher, the Prince of Monaco, Sting and Queen Elizabeth II have stayed here but that doesn't mean the common proletariat can't afford luxury. Lars says prices vary but typically rooms are no more than 160-200 Euro a night. Doing the math that translates to a reasonable rate.

Fritz and Friends in the Tyrolian Alps

Okay, as promised, I'm picking up where I left off yesterday. So, our guide, Elizabeth, is clearly a women in love with her hometown of Innsbruck. She ran us past the city treasures in record time; sights like the Golden Roof, the Hofkirche (Imperial Church), the Landestheater, the Triumphpforte (Triumphant Arch) and more Christmas markets all in the heart of Old Town.

Following our steep climb via funicular to the top of the world (see photo from last entry) we took a horse-drawn sleigh ride through the nearby towns of Götzens, Birgitz and Axams; three Tyrolean Olympic villages known as the “Pearls of the Low Mountain Range." Our chariot driver was a man dressed in Austrian cowboy apparel that went by the name of Fritz; befitting I'd say.

Fritz deftly navigated the narrow town streets past beautiful bucolic farmhouses, catered ski chalets and guesthouses and vacation rentals that would be perfect for a group of traveling friends. I joked that the 9 of us journalists should pool our money and buy a place and use it like a timeshare. I think it was seriously considered at a brief pause in conversation.

The meal before the ride included dining at a local favorite called Postkutscherhof, a restaurant, again, owned by Fritz and his busy wife. Fritz was such a hoot. A man of few words but nicer than Santa Claus.

Today, Donna and our ski guide, beautiful blue-eyed Sebastian, went skiing atop the the Tirol Mountains in a romantic resort called Axamer Lizum. The breathtaking view from above was nearly as exhilarating as carving our way down the piste.

Donna and I rented our demos and spanking new Soloman boots earlier from a convenient ski shop called The Progressive Sports Store. I highly recommend leaving your equipment home when a place like this, run by a guy named Volker, exists. They hooked us up with all the necessities in record time.

Donna and I skipped lunch to indulge in the fleeting sunshine. We hurled our bodies down 5 or 6 favorite trails because the mountain hasn't received enough snow yet to keep the rockier terrain open. By January or late December, that should change. In the meantime, there are zero lift lines and a super fast funicular train that fits several dozens, leaving base camp every 10 minutes.

Innsbruck, Austria

Ascending to the top of Nordkette in only 20 minutes by funicular railway is like no other place in the world. More on it tomorrow.

First up, a tour of Innsbruck, the capital center of European politics and culture since 1429. Our guide and Austrian Ambassador is a spry and passionate character with an adorable ascent who's lived here since her birth in the 1930's. Along the way she bumps into dozens of faces that immediately know her, including her own grandchildren skiing on the mountains. She does a wonderful job of rushing us from place to place, never losing sight of the time and details of the area.

Oh, sugar - I have to run... there's more to see and do and there's no time to blog right now. Check back later tomorrow!

Pagan Customs in Berchtesgaden

This diabolical pre-Christian monster is one of a dozen who spend the evening whipping spectators with a birch switch called "Lebensrute." The annual pagan custom, terrifying for some, a treat for others, takes place in Berchtesgaden, Germany on December 5th.

Sounds fun? It is for the thousands of visitors who coax and cajole the sinister beasts called "Kramperl" into chasing them through the cobblestone streets. The parade also includes "Buttnmandl" wrapped in long stripped straw, ugly fur masks and heavy bells around their waist. The bells are so loud you can hear the trouble coming from a mile away.

The yearly celebration means the 'holy man' or St. Nikolaus is on his way. Dressed in bishop's clothes he and his cohorts determine who's been 'naughty' or 'nice' and hand out candy or welts, depending on the verdict. The monsters take no prisoners, be it a professional journalist or a little kid.

One of our writers got a little too close to the chaos and had her legs switched by the Lebensrute. Ouch! Even adults cower in fear from the brutality of these beatings.

I got caught in a crowd of rabble-rousers provoking the demons. We were jammed against a wall when the Buttnmandle and Kramperl surrounded us with anger in their eyes. Their bells were deafening. Several of us (just the girls) let out terrifying screams and ducked under to squeeze through the legs of the brave boys. Then I discovered why - they wore padded knee cushions and layers of protection. No wonder!

As expected, nightmares disturbed me for the rest of the night. Might have I lived through this as a kid I would surely need counseling later in life!

Tirolean Tidings

It's typical to experience sun, rain and precipitation in Europe, especially a mixed forecast traveling through the Bavarian Alps. Lucky for us, the sun busts open as the most opportune times giving us shutter bugs something to smile about.

With first class arrangements we traveled by train this morning to Austria's Tirolean capital, Innsbruck. Better known for the winter Olympics in 1964 and 1976, this city is an internationally renowned ski town. We are staying in 'Old Town' where the landmark Golden Roof still stands at the plaza center surrounded by medieval houses and a labyrinth of tiny alleyways. My memories are still vivid when I toured here as a kid in 1980 - that's the sort of iconic impression this glorious city makes on people.

Tuesday, Donna and I hit the glacier slopes of the Tirol. There will be hundreds of cable cars and lifts to swoosh us to the top of the world in comfort. The most prominent and highest ski resorts are Kitzbühel and Seefeld, however, I think Donna and I are aiming for something safer. Our hired mountain guide better provide us with an overview and advice on where to ski and where NOT to. After defying the laws of gravity, apres-skiing (partying) kicks off in full force in downtown Innsbruck.

Making Moments Last on Lake Königssee

Today and yesterday was spent in the Bavarian Alps including this sweet spot called Lake Königssee. Surrounded by towering rock cliffs and a crystal clean lake, our electric boat glided across the smooth surface of this fjord-made lake.

Half way to the St. Bartholomew Church our boat driver cut the engine and played a trumpet into the face of the mountain. The sounds of the trumpet bounced off the rocky precipice making for a haunting echo serenade. On board were a team of lederhosen-wearing musicians who played a couple squeezeboxes for our entertainment. Both added to the magic of our Bavarian sojourn.

The clouds act swiftly in the mountains so act swiftly taking photography. When the wind blows in there's no time fussing with your shutter speed or aperture. Just take the shot or the the shot is lost.

The same can be said of life experiences. The last time I was here was 28 years ago when I was a wee tiny 10 year old. I vacationed here with my German family including Dad and sis. That time in my life feels just as fleeting as taking this snapshot, short-lived but sweet.

Gifts for Him or Her in Tollwood

My friends and Mutti can attest to this - I DO NOT like handicrafts, especially what I like to call 'holiday kitsch' like little baskets, wood carvings, dolls, quilts, dried flower arrangements, nativity scenes, stenciling, glassware, etc... My rule of thumb is: keep it simple, minimal and environmentally sound. That said, Christmas markets in Germany are so much more than your Grandma's craft fair.

Tollwood, the largest market in Munich is a great example. It's one of the wackiest but safest food friendly festivals in the country. Food vendors provide delicious treats composed entirely of locally-grown, organic cuisine served in reusable dishes and glassware. It's actually mandatory to do so.

It's wacky because if you can't find it here it probably hasn't been made yet. Everything from furry finger puppets to statues of Buddha to an aboriginal rain sticks to Egyptian, Syrian and Iranian style hookahs. Tollwood is a bohemian manufactures paradise, for him or for her.

In a tent called Tief-im-Wald-Bar-Café, we found a dozens of tall birch trees sprouting up between picnic tables and sitting space. A string of lights decorated the corners while dozens of young and old merrily sipped beer with riotous vigor. No reason to be sour during this season.

500 Years of Yuletide Traditions

It's Christmas time in Germany and no place on the planet are celebrating as joyfully as in Munich, especially in Christkindlmarkt. The central square of Marienplatz is the most enchanting. Shopping at brightly lighted huts owned by local merchants has been tradition since the 14th century.

After dropping off our things off at the Cacoon Hotel, we hit the cobblestone streets for Gluehwein (hot mulled wine), Lebkuchen (ginger bread), handicraft figurines that still delight and homemade garments like socks, hats and mittens.

My camera clicker wouldn't stay quiet. Every couple seconds the nativity scenes and kiosk faces became more and more decorative and festive. From one market to another we glided along with a sea of shoppers from around the world.

Munich is the Bavarian Capital of the world and restaurant servers dress in Lederhosen (leather shorts), suspenders, royal blue ties on the men and skirts called Trachtenrock and green woolen hats called Lechtaler Hut for the women. We dined at a Hacker-Pschorr Brewery last night, founded back in 1417. I ripped into a plate of cooked radish, potato macaroni and veal bathing in mushroom sauce. Yum.

Following dinner I cabbed it back to the hotel so I could meet up with my younger cousin Ingo. My Mutti (mother) grew up in these parts and her family still live here so, with a small window of time, Ingo and I shared a conversation on the last 5 years of our lives. Ingo's married, has a family and still works for IBM! My little cousin is all grown up! By midnight serious jet-lag set in and I had to retire with the rest of my traveling posse.

Guten Tag My Faithful Followers

I hurried to write my last blog entry and then jumped aboard a silver bullet to rocket across the Atlantic. Hoorah, hoorah, this time we scored business class! How happy was I? The sweet seats offered up a fab meal, comfy socks, refills on Riesling, even fruit smoothies after a 5 hour respite, stretched out from heal to toe, of course.

I'm traveling with Mark, Corinna, Barbara and Jim, 4 journalists from NYC, D.C., St. Louis and the outskirts of Philadelphia. I'll learn more about them along the way.

Right now we're waiting in the Zurich airport for our connecting flight to Munich. It's a great space, wall-to-wall windows, green escalators, soothing trams from gate to gate. I thought the escalator might be broken when I went to jump aboard. Before getting on it wasn't moving so I turned to my crew and told them it must be broken. Being the consummate travelers that they are, they knew better. They popped aboard and it started moving. Of course! Europeans are so electricity-conscious they programmed the escalator to only move when it needs to.

Oops, again, I have to run. My connecting flight to Munich just started boarding. I'll be back in a couple hours and a thousand photos later.

All Aboard for Suisse Flight 787

It's been a busy week. Up and down the Northway Monday, Tuesday and today interviewing a myriad of top intellects on the pros and cons of cell phone towers. Most experts agree that EMf waves are scary business but you wouldn't know it from the amount of cell towers being constructed.

Many today are hiding, disguised as trees, church steeples, barn silos and sitting atop water towers. Topped with a tiny cross, I climbed to the top of one steeple church in a small town in New Jersey, to shoot the panels inside. None were turned on yet so I felt safe crawling around them.

Then again, shooting this doc is changing the way I see the world. I'm reluctant to keep my wifi access and I'm covering my cell phone in a magnetic strip hoping to cut down on the radiation.

Oops... I have to run. I'm off to Suisse right now and my plane is boarding. More on this and my trip to Europe when I arrive!